Why You Should Not Shoot Video With A DSLR – #3

I just came across another example of a production where you should leave the DSLR in the bag.

This time it’s something that I believe a sane person should avoid at all costs anyway. But shooting it with a DSLR? Well…

Scenario

You’re working on a project shot with DSLR cameras where a character has a scene in front of a well known landmark in a city far from the rest of your story. You look at the budget to get those shots and start talking about other ways to accomplish the scene. Someone pipes up and says, “Why don’t we just green screen it? No need to travel, we’ll shoot in the studio.”

Question

Do you check that problem off the list and schedule the time in the studio?

Reality

Green screen, blue screen, it doesn’t matter which color you use. This is a difficult production technique to pull off correctly under any circumstances. But doing it with a DSLR can make everything even more troublesome.

Pulling a good chroma key requires good chroma. That’s the color information in the video. That’s also the “4″ in the three numbers you see after some codec definitions, like Apple’s ProRes 422.

The best video for pulling a chroma key is uncompressed 10 bit video with a 4:4:4 color space. DLSR cameras produce highly compressed 8 bit video with a 4:2:0 color space. The differences are significant.

Highly compressed 8 bit video with 4:2:0 color is one reason why it’s difficult for high end film producers to embrace DSLR cameras. There’s just not as much information in DSLR video as in an uncompressed codec with 4:4:4 color space. It’s why professional color graders say it’s more difficult to grade DSLR footage. And it’s why you can’t pull great chroma keys from DSLR footage.

Besides, it’s easy to record uncompressed 4:4:4 video. Just get something like the DeckLink Extreme from Blackmagic and tap the full resolution HDMI or SD/SDI outputs of your camera.

Whatyour DSLR doesn’t have full resolution HDMI or SD/SDI outputs?

Neither does mine, no DSLR camera has these outputs. But you’ll find either HDMI or SD/SDI outputs on all professional camcorders, most prosumer camcorders, and even quite a few high end consumer camcorders.

If you plan to shoot much chroma key video I’d suggest going with one of these setups rather than a DSLR. You can spend about the same money and end up with a much better result. And the good news is that’s it easy to simulate the shallow DOF of a DSLR with a chroma key. Just dial in some Gaussian blur on the background.

But, just for the sake of argument, let’s assume that you take the time to set up the perfect green screen shot. You have your background loaded into your laptop with software that can generate the key. You’re able to overlay the key and view the results on a high quality monitor so you can match lighting and align the shot perfectly. You have the staff on hand to control everything for the perfect shot.

How long do you want to live with that shot on a timeline? Five seconds? Maybe a bit longer?

If you want to cut to a closeup you’ll need to shift your background to match the new camera angle. In fact, if you move the camera at all you’re going to need to adjust everything.

What if you’ve got two actors and need an over the shoulder shot? You’re going to need the reverse of your background that matches perfectly.

What if you want to pan or zoom or make any kind of live action move? You’re going to need to have a system that allows you to move the virtual camera on your background to perfectly match the live camera move.

I’m not saying that any of this is impossible. I am saying that getting great special effects shots take much more preproduction, production and post-production to pull off. If it was easy, everyone would be doing it. How many high budget films have you seen with poor chroma key effects?

On the other side of this situation, there are times when the visual design of the production makes such special effects necessary. If you have to take on such a project here’s a video with the best chroma key product I’ve seen. It will work with your clips from a DSLR and even an HDV camcorder.

Guy Cochran over at dvestore.com sells a product called Reflecmedia. Rather than paint a wall green and light it very carefully, Reflectmedia uses a special cloth that reflects light directly back to the camera. It has an LED light ring that you attach to the front of the camera. The light from the LED is very pure color and bounces off the special cloth to produce a great source for pulling a chromakey. Watch the video and Guy will show you how it works.

Reflecmedia in action – Chroma key made easy from Guy Cochran on Vimeo.

Chroma key is one of those things that people seem fascinated with and can’t wait to try. If you must include a chroma key shot in your project then the good news is that you’ll get to bill your client a lot more. If you’re the client I’d think of other ways to solve the problem than chroma key.

Tell me what you think? What’s your experience with chroma key?

  • http://dslrvideoshooter.com Caleb Pike

    I think your argument is a good one… if a HDSLR is the only camera someone ever uses. This problem has a very simple answer. Either shoot it real (The city not the green screen) because it usually looks so much better, or rent a different camera for the day.

    I totally agree with HDSLR failing to pass as great green screen cams but I would not consider this a reason to not use them. Just become good friends with a RED/EX3 owner ;)

    Thanks so much for your content. I blog so I get the work it takes. Keep it up!

  • http://dslrvideoshooter.com Caleb Pike

    I think your argument is a good one… if a HDSLR is the only camera someone ever uses. This problem has a very simple answer. Either shoot it real (The city not the green screen) because it usually looks so much better, or rent a different camera for the day.

    I totally agree with HDSLR failing to pass as great green screen cams but I would not consider this a reason to not use them. Just become good friends with a RED/EX3 owner ;)

    Thanks so much for your content. I blog so I get the work it takes. Keep it up!

  • http://dslrhd.com Adriel Brunson

    Thanks Caleb – I appreciate your comments and your support. Nice blog, BTW…
    -a-

  • http://DSLRHD.com adriel

    Thanks Caleb – I appreciate your comments and your support. Nice blog, BTW…
    -a-

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  • http://www.ultrasoundtechnicianblog.com/ ultrasound technician

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  • Nick

    I think the Canon EOS 500D does have HDMI out.
    But the rest of your arguments are bang on.

    As someone contemplating a move into HD-DSLRs I’m finding this blog really useful, thanks.

  • Nick

    I think the Canon EOS 500D does have HDMI out.
    But the rest of your arguments are bang on.

    As someone contemplating a move into HD-DSLRs I’m finding this blog really useful, thanks.

  • http://dslrhd.com Adriel Brunson

    Thanks for your comments – all these DSLR’s have HDMI out but it’s not uncompressed HD video. That’s what we want for great chroma key!

  • http://DSLRHD.com adriel

    Thanks for your comments – all these DSLR’s have HDMI out but it’s not uncompressed HD video. That’s what we want for great chroma key!

  • john hanbury

    Good summary of the HDMI situation..

    Just correcting one technical point:

    You write “Pulling a good chroma key requires good chroma. That’s the color information in the video. That’s also the “4″ in the three numbers you see after some codec definitions, like Apple’s ProRes 422.”

    Actually the ’4′ refers to the luma (lightness) resolution, and the two ’2′s refer to the chroma (colour) resolution.

    So 4:2:2 means that for every 4 pixels of luma there are only 2 pixels of chroma in each of the two chroma channels. The chroma channels are ‘half-res’ compared to the luma channel.

    i.e. there isn’t as much chroma resolution as there is luma resolution. When you’re pulling a key from 4:2:2, that means that although the footage looks full-res to the naked eye, the keyer only sees the footage as half-res. So the key shows stair-stepping.

    It’s why 4:1:1 or 4:2:0 DV footage keys so badly. The chroma information is quarter-res compared to the luma information. (or in the case of 4:2:0, the two chroma channels are half-res and eighth-res.)

  • john hanbury

    Good summary of the HDMI situation..

    Just correcting one technical point:

    You write “Pulling a good chroma key requires good chroma. That’s the color information in the video. That’s also the “4″ in the three numbers you see after some codec definitions, like Apple’s ProRes 422.”

    Actually the ’4′ refers to the luma (lightness) resolution, and the two ’2′s refer to the chroma (colour) resolution.

    So 4:2:2 means that for every 4 pixels of luma there are only 2 pixels of chroma in each of the two chroma channels. The chroma channels are ‘half-res’ compared to the luma channel.

    i.e. there isn’t as much chroma resolution as there is luma resolution. When you’re pulling a key from 4:2:2, that means that although the footage looks full-res to the naked eye, the keyer only sees the footage as half-res. So the key shows stair-stepping.

    It’s why 4:1:1 or 4:2:0 DV footage keys so badly. The chroma information is quarter-res compared to the luma information. (or in the case of 4:2:0, the two chroma channels are half-res and eighth-res.)

  • http://dslrhd.com Adriel Brunson

    Thank, John. You are correct – that first “4″ refers to luma. Thanks also for the explanation of half-rez and eighth-rez – that makes it much clearer why it’s difficult to pull a good key from this type of video.

    Not to say it can’t be done! It’s just not optimum.
    -a-

  • http://DSLRHD.com adriel

    Thank, John. You are correct – that first “4″ refers to luma. Thanks also for the explanation of half-rez and eighth-rez – that makes it much clearer why it’s difficult to pull a good key from this type of video.

    Not to say it can’t be done! It’s just not optimum.
    -a-

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