Questions

Which camera should I buy?

What’s the right way to create this shot?

How do I get better sound?

I don’t know what your question is but I’m sure you have more than one. I promise that I will answer your question whether I know the answer or have to find someone else who knows the answer.

So click in the box below and ask away. Enter your email address and I’ll send you the answer.

1. Rating: +0

   

   I am planing to buy a 5D or 7D. It will be mainly used for TV Commercial production and cannot decide which one is best. Any advice will be welcomed.

   I'd go with the 7D. Being able to change the frame rate will be extremely useful in commercial production.

   Shooting at 50 or 60p then editing at 25 or 30p produces the smoothest slo-mo possible, lovely for all kinds of effects in commercial production. Even just a shot of a model walking looks a million times better in slo-mo.

   If you can swing buying two 7D's you'll cut your production time by shooting two angles at the same time. And time is money on commercial productions.

2. Rating: +0

   

   Will the lens choice change DOF in the Panasonic AF-AG100 like it does in a DSLR?

   The lens choice and DOF in the AG100 can be like a DSLR while everything else will be like a camcorder. Click here to read the full post about this

3. Rating: +1

   

   What should I get for a basic DSLR setup?

   I'm working on a guide for this and will let you know when it's available.

4. Rating: +1

   

   I need a better way to focus. What should I use - an external monitor or a loupe?

   It depends on what you're shooting and how you're shooting it.

   A loupe works best when you're shooting by yourself and you're shooting with the camera at eye level. You'll be better off with a monitor is you're shooting with a crew who needs to check the frame or if you're shooting with the camera lower or higher than eye level. I use both and you'll probably want to have both options.

5. Rating: +1

   

   Is Canon EOS 550D (Rebel T2i) a good DSLR for filming? I have Rode VideoMic. Is it compatible with the DSLR? Thanks in advance.

   The Canon EOS 550D (Rebel T2i) is a great DSLR for filming - depending on what you're filming! The last episode of the hit TV series "House" was filmed on a Canon 5D and they could have easily shot much of it on the T2i. If this camera lets you start shooting your project then it's perfect.

   As for the Rode VideoMic, the Canon T2i (550D) has an external mic input so you'll be able to plug the Rode in and seriously improve the audio of your film. That being said, recording audio on any DSLR leaves a lot to be desired.

   I strongly recommend picking up a small digital audio recorder for your Rode - any of the Zoom recorders will work great. Plus, there is no headphone jack on the T2i (or any DSLR) so you can't tell what your audio sounds like until it's too late.

   I also recommend getting an extension cable and some kind of stand or boom. You want to get the mic as close to the talent as possible. The Rode's cable is very short as it's made to mount on top of a camcorder and plug into the side so get an extension cable.

   Unless you're shooting run-n-gun style, take the time to set up the mic and you'll be even happier shooting your film with the Canon 550d (T2i).

   Tell me when you've got some footage shot and online!

6. Rating: +1

   

   Knowing what Canon and Sony know about the demands of DSLR/HD video folks, is a better hybrid video camera in the works?

   Yes, there are better hybrid video cameras in the works. Here's a post about one from Sony - http://dslrhd.com/2010/05/sony-dslr-camcorder-in-development-sneak-peek/

   I've also seen something similar mentioned in rumors about Nikon. And, of course, our friends at RED are still working on releasing Scarlett.

   It's likely that all of these will cost more than a DSLR. Yes, it costs more to include all the features of a video camcorder and to ensure the highest quality signal output. But as much as anything the pricing will reflect the market and professional video camcorders cost thousands of dollars more than a DSLR.

   But if you're shooting professionally, the investment in the camera body is only one factor in the cost of production so anything in the $5-10K range would be a big seller.

7. Rating: +0

   

   I am looking to start taking better photos but also want to make short films. To fulfill both of these desires would it be better to get a DSLR like to Canon Rebel T2i or T1i or an HD videocamera like the Canon Vixia HF s100?

   Perfect! This is the core of what DSLR video is all about.

   If you're looking to start taking better photos then you belong to the DSLR club. And if you want to make short films then many people believe you belong in the DSLR club for that as well.

   The only reason I can think of for going with an HD camcorder is if your short films will be fully of hand-held action sequences. Otherwise, get a DSLR and start shooting.

   Oh, and make it the Canon EOS Rebel T2i (also called the 550D in Europe). It's the lowest priced DSLR with the highest quality output, especially video. You'll get the same video quality as a Canon 7D for half the cost.

   Enjoy your movement into the DSLR club and let me know when you've got some nice clips on line. I look forward to seeing your work.
   -a-

8. Rating: +3

   

   I am planning on getting the Canon Rebel T2i, but what lens should I get? Is the Canon EF-S 18-55mm IS lens that comes in the kit any good for video or is there a better lens for shooting video?

   I bought the Canon EF-S 18-55mm IS kit lens with my T2i and it works great for shooting stills and video. Except...

   The f-stop on this lens ranges from 3.5 to 5.6. If you plan to shoot indoors you'll need a good bit of light to make this lens work or you'll need to increase the ISO. Higher ISO always means more noise in the blacks.

   I recommend getting a reasonably fast prime lens for shooting indoors with low light. You can pick up a Nikon Nikkor 50mm f1.8 for less than USD$120 new and it shoots very solid video in low light. The 1.6 crop factor of the T2i sensor means the lens will look more like a 70mm so you'll have to work further from your subject. It's a decent lens for the money and should find a place in your kit from now on.

   The second thing about the Canon 18-55 lens is that it's extremely sensitive for focus. You only need to turn the focus ring a few degrees to shift several feet in focus. This makes it a bit harder to focus but the T2i has a decent zoom-assist for focusing. Racking focus while shooting is very difficult with this lens. And, because the focus ring on this lens moves in and out a good bit while zooming you will not be able to use a follow-focus on the lens.

   The Nikon 50mm has none of the problems. However, it is a full manual prime lens and you'll need a Nikon to Canon adapter so none of the auto functions on the T2i will work with this lens. For video you likely want everything manual anyway.

   Bottom-line - the kit lens is a good place to start and adding the Nikon 50mm will take care of low light shots. For the price you'll have clean images on both video and stills. Your next lens choice will be driven by what kind of video you're shooting - people, landscapes, indoor, outside. And how you like to work. But you'll have a good foundation for making that choice after working with these two lenses.

   Let me know what you decide...
   -a-

9. Rating: +1

   

   Hi there I keep hearing about this 12 minute Full HD recording limitation because of FAT32 which makes sense. What I don't understand is why if you are using something like a 32Gb card it can't just write to a new file in sequence.... or does it do that?

   Great question.

   Yes, on Canon DSLR's there is a 12 minute recording limitation for full HD recording because of the FAT32 file format of the SD card. The reason it doesn't just kick over and start a new file in the sequence is because they did not program it to do that.

   These are cameras made for shooting stills. Even the largest still image captured in both RAW and JPEG formats is not going to hit the file size limit of FAT32. And even if you're shooting 3 or 4 still frames a second the system is recording each one of those as a unique file.

   I also shoot on a Sony Z5 with the CF card recorder. It also has the FAT32 file system with the same limits but it has been programmed to do just what you're wanting a DSLR to do. Just as it hits the file limit it instantly starts a new file in sequence. When you use the Sony plug-in for Final Cut Pro the Log and Transfer utility strings these sequential files back into one continuous video file with no gaps.

   I believe one of the reasons they don't program DSLR cameras to do this is the heat generated by capturing video is significant. Almost all of these cameras will overheat just from having the LCD display on continuously for hours, especially if they're sitting in the hot sun. Recording video adds even more heat as the processors inside are burning up those bits and compressing them into video designed for the SD card format.

   Video camcorders, on the other hand, are made purposefully for these functions. They build in the programming and physical structures to handle the heat generated. But even camcorders designed correctly will hit a limit in how much can fit on a single card. They either provide dual card slots so you can swap in real time or - like the Sony Z5 - have a tape function that can be used to stagger the recording medium for virtually endless video capture.

   Look for Panasonic and Sony both to release cameras with DSLR sensors, mounts for standard DSLR lenses, and bodies with connectors and compute functions to bypass the FAT32 problems by the end of 2010.

   In the meantime, if you need to shoot scenes that will run longer than 12 minutes either don't shoot them with a DSLR or run at least two cameras and stagger the start time. Work out a communication method so you can ensure that at least one camera is always recording.

   I also suggest using an audio recorder with enough memory to capture the whole event. Grab a few cover shots and you can patch over the video edit from short segments but only if the audio is continuous.

   Thanks for the great question - let me know how you decide to handle this.
   -a-

10. Rating: +0

    

    Is the Rebel T3i coming out next year? If so it worth waiting for or should I just get the T2i? Also in terms of actual video quality is the T2i any better than let's say the Canon Vixia HF S200?

    If only Canon would tell me their product release plans a year in advance - Wow!

    I hear lots of rumors of a yearly product cycle but that's all they are - just rumors.

    The technology you buy today will always be obsolete in the near future. If you have projects to shoot now, get a camera now and start learning how to create films with it. There's a lot more to making movies than the camera.

    The same goes for your question about the Vixia S200. These are two very different cameras with benefits and limitations unique to each one. The actual video quality is the end result of so many decisions and variables that it's not going to be easy to make that call.

    If you're looking for something that easy to shoot, I'd go with the Vixia because it's a video camcorder. It has a zoom lens, stereo mics, records longer than 12 minutes per clip, has a movable LCD viewfinder, etc. etc. etc.

    If you want to shoot film style, use prime lenses for shallow depth of field shots, lots of short clips, are comfortable with dual sound recording, and love the look of DSLR video then the T2i is the best entry point on the market right now.

    I use both types of cameras - DSLR and video camcorder. It's a matter of choosing the best tool for the job. You need to look at the kinds of things you want to shoot.

    If you don't know what kind of video you want to shoot, find a way to rent or borrow a camcorder and a DSLR. Shoot for a day, shoot lots of stuff with both cameras, transfer the footage, edit something together and see what you think of the results. It's what works for you that counts.

    Thanks for the question, I look forward to seeing your video on the web!
    -a-

11. Rating: +0

    

    Hi, Though I've been a film and video professional for 15 years, I am a newbie DSLR user. I'm being hired to shoot a short 10-15 minute doc and a promo for online and possibly DVD distribution for a non-profit in Port-au-Prince, Haiti this coming fall. We have a sound guy lined up for it...need professional sound. Used to 2-channel XLRs. Only 2K-3K available for the camera and camera accessories. I've started to read the sites about various SDLR cameras and heard varying opinions about several cameras. I was thinking of the Canon 7D. Thanks for any help you may be able to provide.

    With $2K-3K for equipment I'd recommend the Canon T2i over the 7D. You'll get the same video quality. Good lenses would be top priority. A loupe for better focus outside is a good idea. A follow focus is probably going to be useful if the documentary has any moving action to be shot.

    I'm about to release a DSLR Video Buyer's Guide that covers all of this. I'll let you know when it's available.
    -a-

12. Rating: +0

    

    I just got a T2i kit (18-55mm). I also got a zoom lens (EF-S 55-250mm) and I considering buying some more equipment. I'm a high-end amateur photographer and in the past years fell in love with video editing too. I use to do my short movies on my Canon HV-10, but I always missed some of the more advanced options (such as a mic input). I plan to shoot most of my videos on the T2i now and I was wondering if I should invest in an mic + ext sound recorder or mic + prime lens? The options I’m considering are "Azden SMX-10 + Zoom h2" or "Azden SMX-10 + Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II"

    Interesting question!

    Plugging any microphone directly into the Canon T2i is going to result in an audio track that is noisy and poor quality. I've tried it and, from my point of view, it's not usable audio for anything more than a reference track.

    Plus, any microphone mounted on the camera will not capture the sound of your talent several feet away. The microphone needs to be as close to the talent as possible. So the Azden SMX-10 into the Canon T2i is not a good choice.

    The 18-55mm kit lens and the EF-S 55-250mm will not shoot good video in low light. You'll need something like the 50mm f/1.8 for that.

    My recommendation would be to go for the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II prime lens for low light video.

    For a recorder/stereo microphone I would get the new Zoom H1, which includes a nice stereo mic built-in plus has a 1/8" microphone input, "VU" meters, and a headphone jack for $99.

    I would also recommend a wired lavalier microphone like the Audio-Technica ATR-35S for $29. Plug it directly into the H1 hit the record button and drop the H1 into your talent's pocket just like you would with a wireless transmitter. You'll get great sound with no wireless interference.

    The Zoom H1, Audio-Technica ATR-35S and Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II will cost around USD $240 total. All three for less than the cost of the Azden SMX-10 and the Zoom H2. You'll get high quality audio and a prime lens for low light video.

    Just keep the mic as close to the source of the sound as possible and check everything with headphones or ear-buds.

    -a-

13. Rating: +0

    

    I just got the Rebel T2i body only, now I need a lens, but I am not sure which mm length is good for shooting video 1-2 feet from the subject. Is the 18mm on the kit lens too wide, or the 55mm on the 55-250mm too far zoomed in?

    The 55-250 mm will be too far zoomed in.

    From 2 feet away and set as wide as possible, the 18mm kit lens will frame a person's face just from the top of their head to the bottom of their chin. The 55mm would give you not much more than a couple of inches - maybe just their eyes.

    If you want to shoot people from closer than 2 feet you'll need something wider than the 18mm kit lens. Maybe like the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8.

14. Rating: +0

    

    Hello, I am planning on purchasing a DSLR with a budget or $400-$700 and was planning on getting the Canon T2i. My main purpose is for video. Sound is not an issue, since I will be using external audio recording device. Does anyone insight on whether or not the Canon Rebel T2i is a good choice for me? If you don't think so, please suggest some DSLRs for me to look into. Any insight is appreciated, thanks! Patrick

    I own the Canon T2i and there is no DSLR at this price point that will shoot better video.

    I also have the 18-55mm kit lens and it works well for video outside. It's not very fast and needs a lot of light inside for video.

    Let me know if you have more questions,
    -a-

15. Rating: +0

    

    I'm just deciding whether to get a Canon 7D, and have what may be a stupid question: if you use a Zoom recorder, does it get synched while you are shooting, or do you have to do that afterward? Thanks! Absolutely LOVE this site.

    Melanie,
    Thanks, I'm glad you're finding good things here.

    That's a great question. And the answer is that you sync it afterward.

    Professional systems distribute timecode around the set and it gets recorded on all cameras and audio recorders so everything is in sync when it's shot and can be easily synced up in post.

    DSLR cameras do not have timecode, neither does the Zoom.

    You can either clap your hands to create a visible and audible sync point at the start of every take or use a slate to mark the shot and create the sync point.

    In post you can sync by hand - just line up the spikes in the audio track. Or you can use Plural Eyes, a software tool that will analyze the audio track on the video clips and in your audio files and match everything up for you.

    I use both methods. If I have just a few clips it's easy to do them by hand. If I've got a lot of clips Plural Eyes is a smarter choice.

    Let me know if you more questions,
    -a-

16. Rating: +0

    

    What video titling and editing software do you use to make your videos? Thank you in advance! Wil

    Wil,

    I use Final Cut Pro Studio for editing, grading, etc.. I like Magic Bullet Mojo for certain types of timeline grading and I've got a couple fo other special little tools for timeline work.

    I've also used Sony Vegas on Windows. Both are great and both have things that could be done better. The biggest limitation is always my own ability to use the tool.

    For quick, funky titles I really like the Hand-Drawn series from CrumplePop - https://www.plimus.com/jsp/buynow.jsp?contractId=2318746&referrer=brunsona - they come as Master Templates which means you get more than just text editing, you get a whole look.

    For my own projects I also use LiveType, which is no longer part of Final Cut Studio but still works. For commercial work I team with a graphics designer who uses a variety of tools.

17. Rating: +0

    

    Heretofore I've shot 1080i via a Canon HF200 and incorporated these clips in Final Cut Pro along with animated high res stills. My FCP "settings" are 1080i. I'm contemplating acquisition of a Canon 7D and it shoots at 1080p. Can I transcode to Pro Res, then simply drop in this 1080p footage into my 1080i project? My deliverable is disk, both Blu-Ray and SD. (By the way, I've purchased your DSLR Buyer's Guide and love it - but it doesn't answer the above question!) DCS

    DCS,
    Great question and there's good reason it isn't answered in the DSLR Buyer's Guide. Other than bringing up the importance of a solid archive strategy, I drew the line at DSLR video production. Post-production with footage from a DSLR is a whole 'nother thing.

    I believe you should be okay dropping a 1080p30 clip from a Canon 7D into a 1080i timeline. Editing is done at frame boundaries, not in the fields. FCP is taking the 60 fields of the 1080i clip and making 29.97 video frames each second. The 1080p30 clip from the 7D is already at 29.97 frames a second so everybody should be happy, playing as good friends. And you're correct about transcoding to ProRes before doing any of this.

    Also, the theory says that you're rendering out as progressive for the Blu-Ray so all your 1080i footage will be de-interlaced in the process. Theory is great but I'd recommend grabbing some 1080p30 clips from a DSRL and run a few tests on both disc formats.

    You would also be advised to have your test discs checked by any other distribution channel. Local cable and broadcast facilities may have issues with any or all of this.

    HOWEVER - - All this changes if you're working with 1080p24.

    Now you're not just mixing progressive and interlaced clips, you're mixing frame rates and that is not likely to produce a good result. You'll have to covert the 24p into 60i by adding 3:2 pulldown or go the other way and convert everything to 24p. I'm not an expert at either but the generally agreed "best practice" is to take 24p to 60i as that's been done for years with film transfers.

    See why I stopped the Buyer's Guide before hitting post-production?

    Let me know if you need some 1080p30 clips straight from a DSLR let me know and I'll give you a link to download a couple.
    -a-

18. Rating: +0

    

    Hi Adrian,      I recently sold my Sony Pro Broadcast camcorder in order to purchase a new Canon T2i. All I have at the moment is the T2i, an 18-55 kit lens, a tripod with fluid head. a spare battery, and a 32GB SD card. I need a rig to film an upcoming Bar Mitzvah. Usually the Bimah (podium) is about 30ft away. I was looking at a fig rig, a zoom lens/prime telephoto, and an H1 with a Lav. My shopping list combined is out of my price range. Any buying advice would be great. I have a tight budget and was hoping to spend as little as possible. Thanks, Sam

    Sam,
    The first item I'd buy is the lav and recorder, it's the only way to get decent sound from 30 ft. The Zoom H1 is not available yet at my sources. Availability ranges from Aug 20 to Sept 18. If you need it sooner you may need to go for the Zoom H2 or find a way to get the lav connected to another inexpensive recorder.

    Next I'd look at the lens. From 30 ft the 18-55mm will be too wide for much detail. And, if it's the kit lens, the f/stop is too high to use indoors without adding light to the shot. I'd probably want something like the Sigma 50-150mm f/2.8 II EX DC HSM Lens. It goes for around $750 but it should work in low light and it's made for an camera with a sensor size like the T2i.

    Fig rigs are expensive so if you need to go hand held the cheapest solution I've found is the Adorama Heavy Duty L-bracket with 2 Standard Flash Shoe Mounts. They cost about $12 and will give you a handle plus a couple of mounts for lights, etc. Get two and you can shoot with both hands.

    Manual focus can be interesting shooting like this so you'll need to practice a good bit.

    Let me know how it goes,
    -a-

19. Rating: +0

    

    Hey I just had a couple questions. First off currently I have a sony alpha 230 with the kit 18-55 lens and i recently bought a 75-300. I have taken about 3500 shots with the kit lens and about 1500 shots with the new zoom lens and was wondering if when the next generation of cameras is the time to upgrade. Every photographer is different and people learn at different speeds so I know you can't give me a perfect estimate but I was wondering if you knew on average how long people go through the entry level. The reason I'm asking you this is because I would love to be able to shoot video and the canon t2i caught my attention (but will probably upgrade when the t3i comes out) however, i love the small size and weight of the sony body and was wondering if you could just really give me any advice on when to upgrade and what to upgrade to. To maybe help a little, I am almost 100% of the time shooting fast moving objects for both pictures and in the future film. Thanks in advance.

    Wow, that's a difficult question. But I think I have a simple answer.

    You should upgrade when the equipment you're using limits your ability to execute your project.

    If you're getting the shots you need now keep using the equipment you've got. If you keep hitting the same issue and know that a new piece of equipment solves that issue then it's time to consider an upgrade.

    As for timing of new products and future-proofing your purchase decision, that's like timing the stock market. It's not always successful.

    I suggest looking at your equipment with the perspective that you'll be using it for years. From this perspective, great lenses last longer than camera bodies so it's worth the cost to buy better glass.

    Also, there is a strong market for used photographic equipment so you can always sell your current equipment if you decide it no longer does the job.

    The T2i is a great camera for the price and it's likely that Canon will continue to innovate in this price range. Sony has also gotten serious about DSLR video with their latest releases and, with your investment in Sony glass, it may make sense to stay with Sony bodies. Otherwise you'll be working with adapters or purchasing all new lenses.

    Finally, I always suggest trying equipment to make sure it works for you. You say you shoot 'fast moving objects" but it's more about your style of shooting those objects that matters. So work with a store that will let you exchange the camera if needed and give it a go to see for yourself.

    Let me know how it goes,
    -a-

20. Rating: +0

    

    Hi, I've shot photos on the pentax K100D and nikon D60, i own a sony HD handycam, and would like to upgrade to a beter camera. I was always looking at camcorders, which i like, but can be expensive, then I discovered DSLR video and your site. I want to buy a DSLR, preferably Canon, and am deciding between the T2i and the upcomming 60D. I feel that the T2i's fixed screen would limit me in many situations, but would save me some $. I guess my question is, is it worth the extra money/ and bit of wait to get the 60D or the T2i? i plan on making video/film my career so I don't want to skimp on the equipment (I know its not going to make me a beter filmmaker) but I love technology... and $ and like to get my bang for the buck, and im only 16 and got about $1,500 that I can spend, was wondering what your expert view would be?

    More 'bang for your buck' depends on your perspective.

    From a visual quality perspective, you'll get the same image on both cameras. But it you take the extra cost of the 60D and put it into a quality lens you'll get better video.

    From an audio perspective, the ability to manual control the audio level on the 60D means you capture decent sound without investing in a digital audio recorder, though you will need a microphone rather than using the mic built into the camera in any case.

    And, from a usability perspective, the build quality of the 60D is said to be more like the 7D and the movable LCD screen will make it easier to get shots from other than eye level.

    So, which is more important to you - visual quality, audio quality or usability?

    Let me know what you decide...
    -a-

21. Rating: +0

    

    is dslr acceptable for hd broadcast specs? despite visually looking good, is the technical resolution, frame rate, interlace/progressive, compression, codecs, color sampling, color space acceptable?

    It depends on which HD broadcast specs you're talking about. Resolution, frame rate, progress, etc. are all no problem for DSLR. While it would be great to have a 444 color space throughout the workflow, the delivered project color space is determined by your final rendered output.

    It's the data rate spec for HD video that's the biggest issue and even that is now being seen as not a hard and fast rule. For instance, the BBC recently started accepting programs originated on DSLR's on a case-by-case basis - http://philipbloom.net/2010/09/02/bbc/

    If you meet the spec from the BBC you should be good anywhere but your local TV station or cable network may have other ideas. Check with them and run a test if you want to make sure.
    -a-

22. Rating: +0

    

    I just shot a short film using a combination of the 7d, 550d, and the GoPro HD. I shot in 1080p but am looking at the possibility of finishing in 720p to give me the ability to reframe. (I need to "clean" the edges as the super wide-ness of the GoPro HD includes the car-mounts in some of the shots) What's the best way to do this? How far can I go? The film will be projected in a theater. Thank you.

    I regularly shoot 1080p and edit 720p so I can reframe, straighten tilted shots, or use motion on static shots. It's easy to do in Final Cut and I'm sure the same concept will work in other editors.

    Transcode all your footage to the same ProRes format. There are several tools that will do this but use the same tool and same settings for all footage. As you're projecting in a theater you'll want to use either ProRes 422 or ProRes422HQ.

    Open Final Cut and use Easy Setup to choose a 720p format. You can play around and make your own Easy Setup but to get started choose a standard one from the menu.

    Create a New Project. Create bins for your clips in the new project then click and drag your files into the bins in FCP.

    Drag one 1080p clip to your 720p timeline. FCP will ask you if you want to change the timeline settings to match the clip. Click on No to leave it at 720p.

    Double click your clip on the timeline. Use the Motion tab to scale or move your clip. Or in the Canvas window choose to view Image+Wireframe and grab the corners of the clip and resize/reposition as needed.

    Render as a 720p file and everything will look exactly as in your timeline.

    If you plan to use Color for grading be aware that the project will come in as a 720p project. The files are still 1080p while in Color but it will render out 720p files for use in FCP. It should keep any motion/reframing choices you made in FCP but it would be wise to do test renders all the way through the process to make sure.

    Let me know how it goes.
    -a-

23. Rating: +0

    

    What are your thoughts on the new Sony VG-10 Camcorder? I was seriously contemplating purchasing this however the main reason i will not is the lack of 24p frame rate. That as well as a pro model is most surely in the works. Do you think that the VG-10 will make a big impact on the DSLR market considering it has no limitations that most of these new cameras have. (eg. 12min limit, manual exposure, audio controls)

    I love the idea of the Sony VG10 camcorder. And I agree with you that the lack of 24p is a serious issue.

    This camcorder is definitely aimed at the consumer market. It's kind of like reversing the position. Instead of a still camera that shoots pretty good video this is a video camcorder that shoots pretty good stills. The footage I've seen looks great and I believe an experienced operator could shoot brilliant projects with this camera.

    The VG10 won't make much of a dent in the booming DSLR market but it will be perfect for some people. I'm a Sony shooter from way back and I'd love to have one as a B-camera!
    -a-

24. Rating: +0

    

    hello. nice blog! Our little group (media-room.at) is now also starting with dslr shooting. we have a 5d - YAY! My question: could you send me a copy of finalcutassistent ? its not available any more at finalcutassistent.info and I cannot find it anywhere else. would be nice. greets from Austria, flo

    I suggest searching Google for FinalCut Assistant. There are lots of download sites on the web.
    -a-

25. Rating: +0

    

    Hey, on one of your blog posts you said you recommended the Nikkor 50mm f/1.8, is that better than the Canon 50mm f/1.8 . I just bought a 60d w/ the kit lens and I want to buy a 50mm for video. Thanks, Nathan

    The reason I like the Nikon 50mm f/1.8 over the Canon 50mm f/1.8 is that the Nikon is full manual. The Canon uses the electronics of the camera for setting the aperture and prefers to use the autofocus as well. Having full manual control is better in some circumstances, from my perspective. Of course, it depends on each individual and how they like to shoot.
    -a-

26. Rating: +0

    

    I'm starting out with DSLR Filmmaking and I'd like to improve my audio. I'm currently using a Nikon D90 and would like to know which is a better buy--a Zoom H1 or a Zoom H2. I'm planning to shoot short films and such and just want something better than the onboard audio :)

    There's not much difference in the audio file recorded by either the Zoom H1 or H2. They're basically identical for sound quality. The H2 offers more options for using the built-in microphones and the case is a bit heavier. For the half the cost, I recommend the H1. Plus, the H1 mounts on a camera hot shoe more easily.

    -a-

27. Rating: +0

    

    First, let me say that I bought your Buyer's Guide and found it to be worth every penny! It's about time somebody got to the bottom line and talked about the REAL choices for different types of use. Thanks for a great product. I am a former television producer who has done everything from ENG to national spots on 35 mm. I've been out of that game for 10 years, but have remained passionate about still photography. For the latter, there's no question that a full-frame sensor makes a huge difference. But here's my variation on the often asked 5D vs. 7D question: Nobody seems to have addressed Canon's recent 5D firmware update: The good news is that it enables you to shoot at a wider variety of frame rates including 29.97 fps. The bad new is that it does not shoot 1280 X 720 resolution. I will be using DSLR video to shoot fundraising and health information videos for two nonprofits: I will not be shooting for hire-- but I'm not an amateur or hobbyist either. I'm torn between the 5D and the 7D. For an intermediate user like me, how big of a handicap will the 50D's inability to shoot 1280 X 720 be? If I have to mix my footage with other footage, is this going to be a post nightmare (in Final Cut Pro)? The full frame is a major plus from a lens usage, DOF, and still photographer's perspective. But I don't want to spend an extra $900 for something that will actually make DSLR video harder. Any insights or advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Michael

    Michael,

    I love editing 1080p footage on a 720p timeline. You get all kinds of latitude with framing. You can correct alignment issues, reframe for a better transition between clips, reframe for more drama (or less), even make moves on a static shot (like a slow push to build energy).

    If you're rendering out to a DVD or the web the image quality is still better than the final render by a long shot. And the artistic quality goes up immediately.

    Most people with a history like yours love the look of the 5D. I'm sure you'll be happy with it.
    -a-

28. Rating: +0

    

    Dear Mr. Bronson, I'm an experienced short filmmaker and I'm looking forward to buy my first DSLR. Would you comment the Sony A55 camera? As I understood during my web research is that it has a great AVCHD 1080p video, stereo audio with mic in port and it even works shooting video with stabilization and smart autofocus turned on. There is also a good variety of lenses for it by Carl Zeiss, Konica/Minolta. Another plus for me is the 2 memory cards option. The cons I could find are: short battery life, overheating 6 min after shooting video with stabilization. Do you have some experience with A55? I also wonder if I can find some accessories like follow focus and etc. Looks like everything for now is build for Canon cameras. And also other thing: no one in the pro world is talking about Sony A55... Maybe it's still pretty new... Basically I'd like to choose between Sony A55, Panasonic GH2 and Canon 60D. What would you recommend? Thank you in advance, Toma Waszarow

    Toma,
    I do not have personal experience shooting with the A55. But you have mentioned the serious issues it has for shooting professional video. Besides the battery life and overheating issues (which means you'll need two A55 bodies) it only offers 30p frame rates. The Sony A55 just doesn't quite make it to the pro level for me.

    The Panasonic GH2 promises to be a much better option but it's not proven. The touch-screen focus could be valuable but many professionals prefer to focus manually.

    The Canon 60D offers solid performance with proven technology. From these three cameras, it's the most reliable choice.

    The follow-focus devices on the market for DSLR cameras will likely work on all three. Most people are shooting with Canon so the accessory manufacturers tend to use Canon DSLR's in their ads.

    Let me know what you decide and why.
    -a-

29. Rating: +0

    

    I was looking at a few DSLR cameras in the $700 retail price range. Mainly the Canon T1i and the Nikon D5000. Can you give a short opinion on which one of those you would choose and if there is a better choice in that price range, please let me know. I haven't looked too much into the Panasonic DSLR products, but have always loved Panasonic. I have been favoring the T1i because when i shoot video and can also shoot stills, it has a better viewfinder, and a few other small things. I am going to be mainly using this camera for mountain biking and family stuff. I use the GoPro HD cameras so i shoot in 720p, 30fps already and edit in FCP (since 1999). Mainly a video guy for 15 years and want to get more into the photo side of things but don't want to spend $1000+. I found the T1i body only for $389. Then it comes to what lens. Looking at the Sigma 18-200mm to get the wide and zoom all in one. Not sure how fast the lens was or quality was. Should be fine. Thanks for your site though, it is a great find on the net today. Brian Stokes. [email protected]

    Brian,
    I haven't shot video with the T1i so my thoughts come from reports by others and my experience with a Nikon D90.

    As you're already shooting with the GoPro HD 720p/30fps is a familiar timeline in FCP. You will need to transcode the H.264 coming from the T1i to ProRes but that's true of all video from Canon DSLR's. The audio on the T1i is reported to be worse than the newer DSLR's but none of the capture audio well except the 60D.

    I shot with the Nikon D90 for over a year and the video is fine for fun stuff but not quite there for pro work. The T1i seems about the same quality, from what I can tell. And you can't beat the price of $389. So I think it's a decent way to get started.

    The biggest issue I see with the Sigma 18-200mm is it's f/3.5-6.3. That means it will be too slow for video work indoors unless you push the ISO. That's like shooting video with the gain at +18db. You'll have more noise that you'd like. If you want to shoot in available light pick up a cheap fast prime lens like the Nikon or Canon 50mm f/1.8. You can shoot video indoors with an ISO of 400 or less and the footage will be plenty clean.

    The second issue of this zoom lens is the breathing as you move from wide to telephoto and the f/stop changes radically. It's way different than zooming with a video camcorder. It's almost impossible to zoom while shooting with a manual zoom as the movement is too rough and the f/stop change blows your exposure settings. Even changing between shots will call for resetting the exposure. But, again, this is true of all inexpensive still camera zooms and you learn to live with it.

    Mostly, though, I encourage you to get a camera and get into this game.

    I just shot a series of interviews using a Canon T2i with a Nikon 50mm 1.8 for the A camera. I used a Sony Z5 for the B cam. The people look so amazing on the Canon footage compared to the Sony. I'm glad I had the Z5 running because the Canon hit the 12 minute file limit more than once and it was great having continuous footage from the camcorder. But the look of a DSLR is simply wonderful for certain things.

    So get a camera and get started!

    I look forward to seeing your videos on the web.
    -a-

30. Rating: +0

    

    Hi Adriel, Just wanted to say first that I appreciate your site and the informative advice you have given. I'm a college student aspiring to become a DP. As I began my research for the most suitable camera + lens for me, your site was one of the first I found. Your advice has been very helpful to me (and my friends after telling them about the site). Now my research is drawing to a close (and i'm set on a few items, see below), but I'd thought I'd shoot you a question about lenses. (I'm unsure of your workload, so i'll break this thread into a brief segment and detailed segment, explaining my situation). Brief Question: What lens (for the 60d) would an aspiring DP (with a hobby in photography) want to buy as their first lens? And also, what are the ramifications of getting zoom lens for dslr videography? (with camera-shake being the main factor) Just to give you a better idea of what i'm facing, here's a brief breakdown; Budget: $1,600 CDN Camera choice: Canon EOS 60d Lens choice (either or): CANON EF-S 55-250MM 4-5.6 IS LENS TAMRON 18-200MM DI-II F3.5-6.3 Accesories: Sandisk SDHC 8gb Card Lp-E6 Battery My choice for camera is the Canon 60d. My lens of choice (ideally), is one with a min focal length of 18-28mm, and max 200mm. For about 3 weeks, I was set on buying the CANON EF-S 55-250MM 4-5.6 IS LENS, as I did not know yet that an inexpensive 200mm lens with a min focal length below 55 existed yet. Now, upon talking with some friends and realizing the extra $ behind a brand name, I've come to the thought that the Tamron 18-200mm lens would work even better for me (wider aperture + range, more DoF). I've done a little research on it, and found that the quality between it and other canon glass is slightly noticeable. Also, I noticed the Tamron doesn't have VC (Vibration Compensation). Is this an important factor where filming is concerned? Now, being set on getting the Tamron, I wake up this morning to a call from my dad, a photo-hobbyist himself, and we begin to talk lenses. He makes the important note that Canon, being the known brand that it is, offers both consistent warranty support, as well as high quality glass for its lenses. He makes the point that a good investment is one that negates the cost factor, if your trying to achieve a high quality. Overall, the conversation threw me back in the boat of indecisiveness, leading me to this post. In closing, i'd like to mention that my dslr experience with lenses has only been with the Nikon D40 and a 18-55mm kit lens. The main reason for trying to get a zoom lens is that I have limited experience with them, and find that I can become more versatile with my photos if I have one. Also, im looking at the CANON EF 50MM/1.8 AF II (the cheap plastic canon prime) as my go-to lens for solving any lack of DoF my zoom lens cant achieve. If i go with the Tamron, my budget will be enough to buy the prime in a short matter of time, whereas if I buy the Canon Zoom, the longer it will take to save the $. A bit long, but this post pretty much sums up my situation. I appreciate you taking time to read this, and wish you all the best on the site, and your future work. Jason J

    Jason,

    Tough choice to make. But I would recommend the Tamron and here's why.

    There's a 1.6 crop factor on these lenses with the 60D. The Canon 55mm will look like an 88mm lens and that's just too long for shooting anything close. The 18mm Tamron turns into close to a 30mm lens and that's decently wide for basic work. I haven't used either lens personally and reading the reviews it seems like either lens can shoot decent images so the difference in the wide end makes the Tamron a better choice from my perspective.

    If you're aspiring to be a DP then you'll be buying or renting lenses from now on. So look at this as your first lens and know that, no matter which way you go, you'll be saving up for something else soon enough.

    As you mentioned, the most likely next lens will be a 50mm prime with an f/stop of less than 2.0. The Canon EF 50mm f1.8 or the Nikon Nikkor 50mm f1.8 would do nicely.

    The biggest reason is shooting indoors with low light. You'll have to push the ISO with either the Canon or Tamron zoom and end up with too much noise.

    The Canon 50mm plays nice with the 60D while the Nikon will take an adapter. The Nikon is totally manual which can be useful or not, depending on how you like to shoot. I like it and use my Nikon 50mm a lot.

    Hope this helps. Thanks for visiting. Let me know how it goes.

    I look forward to seeing your videos on the web!
    -a-

31. Rating: +0

    

    Hi I'm looking into buying a dslr camera to shoot video, I want to project the results. Should I go for bigger sensor cameras( 7D 5D)? Is a 4/3 big enough( GH2)?

    It's not as much the sensor size as it is a combination of all the elements in the signal path of the camera that determines the final quality of the project. For instance, the compression of the video file can trash the image no matter how large the sensor.

    The best video capture uses little or no compression. Cameras with an HDMI or HD-SDI output can be recorded directly to a drive like the AJA Ki Pro in a format that preserves much more of the quality from the sensor. There are rumors that the HDMI port on the GH2 outputs live video. If this video does not have the camera overlays embedded it would be possible to record an extremely high quality video file with a field recorder like the AJA Ki Pro. But these are just rumors and I haven't seen proof of that work flow.

    Otherwise, you'll be dealing with the artifacts of compression no matter which DSLR you choose. The GH2 uses AVCHD for compression while the Canon 5D and 7D use H.264 MPEG4. Both formats are highly compressed though some footage from Canon's appear to have fewer artifacts in some types of scenes.

    This is one reason people are excited about the Panasonic AF-AG100 - it has an HD-SDI output. The initial camera cost is higher but you'll save time (money) in post and you'll have a much higher quality image for your film-out.

    A factor in your decision that is immediately visible is the difference in depth of field between a full sensor camera like the Canon 5D and an ASP-C sized sensor in the 7D or the 4/3 sensor in the GH2. The larger sensor in the 5D can produce a more shallow DOF than either the 7D or the GH2. That may be important to you depending on the style of production you're shooting.

    Another factor is the cropping of the image from the full sensor 5D. The 7D has a 1.6 crop and the 4/3 has a 2.0 crop. This means a 50mm lens on the 5D will look like an 80mm lens on the 7D and a 100mm lens on the GH2. If your production calls for lots of telephoto work the crop factor will play to your advantage if you shoot with the smaller sensor cameras. On the other hand, you'll need a super-wide lens on the smaller sensor cameras to do close work.

    I wish there was a 'one size fits all' answer but the truth is all productions are shot with trade-offs. You and your DP should shoot test footage with rented equipment to make find out what works best for you and your project.

    Let me know what you decide and why. I look forward to seeing your videos on the web.
    -a-

32. Rating: +0

    

    Hello, i have a Canon 7D, and i want to get better audio. I about buying a preamp to use profesional microphones. My problem is i cant decide between the Juicedlink DT454 and the Beachtek DXA-SLR, both have very similar features and price. I can´t find good information about it. Thanks for your time.

    I just read through lots of user reviews on both units, checked out the spec from both companies, watched a few videos from various sources and here's my take.

    The JuicedLink DT454 has LED metering and the Beachtek DXA-SLR has none. While the meters on the JuicedLink are just 4 LED's at least you can get some idea of what's going on with the signal level. This alone would make it more useful.

    The JuicedLink DT454 seems to be quieter and have a flatter frequency response. I haven't seen head to head comparisons but the little I found points to this difference.

    The JuicedLink DT454 has a set up that takes about 20 minutes and requires use of their manual, perhaps even a visit to the web site. I found no reference to anything like this for the Beachtek. It makes sense to me that you'd need to know how to adjust the device to match your microphone and camera. That's true of all professional equipment so I count this as a positive for JuicedLink.

    The JuicedLink DT454 has a stereo unbalanced 1/8" input besides the two XLR mic inputs. You could feed another mixer into this for controlling more channels. The Beachtek only has the two XLR inputs. Of course, it you're using the AGC disable function you can only record on one channel in your 7D so this may or may not be useful for you.

    Go to http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/684281-REG/juicedLink_DT454_DT454_4_Channel_DSLR_Camera.html/?BI/5779/KBID/6641 and read the reviews there.

    You'll find the biggest issue is the short battery life - maybe 1.5 hours per 9 volt battery. Other than that, there are 23 reviews for the JuicedLink versus 13 for the Beachtek. Either B&H sells more JuicedLink or they have a more loyal customer base.

    Bottomline - I'm sure you'd be okay with the Beachtek DSA-SLR - it's better than the standard 7D audio. But my call is to go with the JuicedLink DT454.

    Let me know how it goes,
    -a-

33. Rating: +0

    

    On the new Panasonic ag-af100, what is the workflow like (how does it get into the edit system)?

    Smitty,
    I just posted this to answer your question.
    http://dslrhd.com/2010/11/panasonic-af100-work-flow/

    Thanks for asking, great question!
    -a-

34. Rating: +0

    

    'I promise that I will answer your question whether I know the answer or have to find someone else who knows the answer.' You just inspired me doc! :) I have a Canon 5D mark 2 with the following lenses: 17-40 F4 L 28-135 F4 I guess I shoot mostly in day light... last time i took some video shots in a rice field with both of these lenses but I could not get the sharp image quality. It was kinda soft... not really focused. Although I shot at F16, F22 and even F27... but could not get that clear DOF. I don't know what's the reason for it... someone told me I should get ND filters... I understand that if I need that film look in bright sunny day with shallow DOF, i gotta get an ND filter but could you plz tell me what should I do to get a big/deep area all in focus clearly. Will be extremely grateful. Regards Imran

    Imran,
    If you were shooting at F16 to F27 you should have had a "big/deep area all in focus clearly". Without seeing the video, there are a couple of things that might have been going on.

    The Canon 5D MKII has a full sensor. To get that much image data into a video it uses computation tricks to throw away some of the pixel data. It uses other processes to compress the data into something small enough to record as video. Both of these steps result in issues with complex scenes - waves on water with sparkling sunlight, grass lawns, fluttering tree leaves, etc. It's possible that the rice field has enough complexity that it's getting soft in the processing from the sensor to the video.

    You can check this by shooting a still and comparing it to a frame from your video. If the still is clear but the video is soft then you'll know it's the processing into HD video that's blowing the sharpness of the image.

    The other possibility has to do with the profile setting on your camera. Contrary to logic, you may actually get a better image by reducing the sharpness setting in camera. Some people find using a flat or super-flat profile to shoot gives them more to work with in post for color and sharpness. The video doesn't look great coming straight from the camera but the blacks aren't crushed, the sharpness isn't creating as many artifacts, and the saturation is not blowing out the color values in the video. Google "5d mkII superflat profile" and you'll find blog posts and video tutorials that explain this in detail.

    Hope this helps, let me know how it goes.
    -a-

35. Rating: +0

    

    Hey, What do you think about a Nikon 3100 against a Canon T2i for video shooting, t2i worth the price diference? i'm mostly interesed in the video features... Really nice and useful blog, my congratulations from Colombia.

    Steve,
    Thanks, I'm glad you found useful info here.

    I haven't shot with the Nikon 3100 but it looks like a solid entry level camera for shooting DSLR video. The biggest practical differences I can find are:
    1) it's a Nikon so if you already have a bunch of Nikon lenses you're good to go
    2) the continuous autofocus which some people would love to use
    3) the Nikon 3100 costs enough less that you could pick up a decent basic lens for the difference
    4) the Nikon 3100 only shoots 1080p at 24fps so you have to drop to 720p for other frame rates

    How important these are is a matter of personal style. Like I always say, get a camera and start shooting. And always consider it just your first camera because there will always be something better down the road.

    Let me know what you decide and I look forward to seeing your video on the web!
    -a-

36. Rating: +0

    

    I just read all your questions and was concerned about the 12 minute video recording limit on some DSLRs like the Canon T2i --"on Canon DSLR's there is a 12 minute recording limitation for full HD recording because of the FAT32 file format of the SD card." Does this mean a DSLR won't record video continuously if the recording exceeds 12 minutes? Does the camera overheat? Is it impossible to record continuous video on a DSLR? Would you mind explaining more about this issue? We want to buy a new HD video camera and would love to try a DSLR (to benefit from the high quality still photography features), but we will be recording seminars that could go for 1.5-2 hours before a break. Is a DSLR a viable option for us or should we rather opt for a good HD camcorder? And if so, what do you recommend?

    Sue,

    All DSLR's on the market now have a 12 minute limit for each clip. The camera will stop recording after about 12 minutes. You can press the record button and start right up again but you'll lose a few seconds. If you want to record a 1.5-2 hour seminar with a DSLR you'll need two cameras so you can stagger the clips and get continuous video. Also, the shallow depth of field of a DSLR could be difficult for seminar recording unless you have a lot of light and can stop down the camera. Otherwise, you'll find your presenter will drop out of focus if they move around at all. Finally, many DSLR's have issues with getting too hot when shooting video continuously for more than an hour or so. You'll get a heat warning then the camera will shut down until it cools off enough to be safe.

    Having recorded many presentations and seminars I would recommend shooting with regular video camcorders. Yes, that's plural. You only get one shot at grabbing a presentation and if one camera has a problem you miss it. Also, it's wise to use one of the cameras to grab some audience shots for b-roll and to have one camera shoot wide with the other tight so you can edit if needed.

    As for which camera, that comes down to your budget. You'll need to take into account tripods and some audio equipment to capture the sound from the presenter even if that's just cables and a mixer to tap into the house system. I always recommend shooting HD even if you're delivering an SD DVD or playing on the web.

    After that, I'd search the web for reviews of cameras in your price range and then look for a deal on "last year's models". Let me know how it goes.

    -a-

37. Rating: +0

    

    Do you have a recommendaton lens for sunset, sunrise, beach and mountain scenery photo stills in Hawaii? Could the same lens be used for indoor/outdoor sports too? If not, do you have a recommendation for sport photo stills? Have a 7d. btw, I purchased the buyer's guide dslr video, thank you for the information. Do you have recommended photo still resource?

    Unfortunately, landscape and sports can rarely be shot with the same type of lens - especially indoor sports.

    Most landscape photos are shot with wide angle lenses to include as much of the scenery as possible. On a Canon 7D you'll need to use a very wide lens as the sensor has a 1.6x crop factor. That means a 50mm lens will look like an 80mm lens.

    You may want a wide-zoom like the Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/351542-USA/Canon_9518A002_EF_S_10_22mm_f_3_5_4_5_USM.html?BI/5779/KBID/6641). This will give you more options in framing and it's made for the APS-C sized sensor of your 7D.

    Sports photography is most often shot with a telephoto lens so you can get close to the action while shooting on the side lines. If it's indoor sports or nighttime sports you'll need a lens with a low f-stop as well or the action will be blurred by slow shutter speeds.

    You may want a tele-zoom like the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM Telephoto Zoom Lens (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/234444-USA/Canon_7042A002_70_200mm_f_2_8L_IS_USM.html?BI/5779/KBID/6641). This lens also has image stabilization which helps in shooting fast moving indoor shots as well. Also, this lens has the same f/2.8 aperture through the entire zoom range making it easy to slip from close to telephoto and get great shots all the way. And, this is a full sensor sized lens so the 200mm will look like 320mm - a very nice zoom for sports.

    Hope this helps. Let me know what you decide.
    -a-

38. Rating: +0

    

    I'm really interested in starting to do some filming and want to get a solid camera to start out with. I was dead set on the 60d recently until I started looking around at other "prosumer" camcorders, and am now kind of torn on whether to go for a camcorder or the 60d. I realize the 60d is obviously more versatile in the photo dimension, but would it be better to get a camcorder that falls in the same price range?

    That depends on the kind of filming you plan to do.

    The Canon 60D will produce video clips that are very filmic. It looks like you shoot film and transferred it to video.

    Prosumer camcorders in the same price range will produce video clips that look like HD video.

    If you can live with the limitations of a DSLR you'll likely shoot better looking video with the 60D. If you need the features offered by a prosumer camcorder for your production style then that's a better solution.

    In the hands of a talented film maker, either will do a great job. If you're learning from scratch, I'd choose the 60D.

    Let me know how it goes - I look forward to seeing your videos on the web!
    -a-

39. Rating: +0

    

    Hello Adriel. Since i have bought your ebook i found it useful for people who wnat to pursue their career with DSLR. However I'm preparing posts in my website and suggesting readers to check our your book. Since I'm almost only a few blogger and dslr user in middleeast ( dubai ) i wanted to know is there any affiliate program or such platform which we can work on it. You have already visited my site hassankiyany.com I believe how ever looking forward to your respond.

    Hassan,
    Yes, I do have an affiliate program with The DSLR Video Buyer's Guide. I published the book through ClickBank.com because they are the largest digital product affiliate program on the web and do a great job. You'll need a ClickBank.com account then go to this link and complete the form - http://dslrhd.com/affiliate_aweber.html

    Let me know if you have further questions,
    -a-

40. Rating: +0

    

    Hello, Thanks for answering so many people's questions! My wife is grad student at USB of Journalism. They have been using the 7d for time laspe and from hearing about her classes, you have to use some kind of timed shutter remote control. Since they've only used the 7d and I'm considering getting her a graduation gift of either the 5d or 7d, my question is do both use the same remote controller for time laspe? Thanks

    Yes, the Canon TC-80N3 Timer Remote Control will work with both the 7D and the 5D as well as several other Canon cameras. There are 3rd party systems that will work with both as well. Google "intervalometer Canon 5D" and you'll find lots of links. There are also software controllers that work from a laptop but most people want something that will work in the field.

    She's fortunate that you're supporting her passion, congratulations to you both!

41. Rating: +0

    

    Hi How does the quality of dslr video compare to a regular $5,000 hd video camera when formatted for standard definition DVD? Thanks for your response Glenroy

    Interesting question.

    My experience with shooting both DSLR and the Sony Z5 is that they are two completely different looks. I've been able to get them close enough to cut together on a program but mostly they are such different ways of creating video that it's difficult to compare. You'd have to use a 35mm DOF adapter on the Sony to get the same look.

    On an SD DVD (or the web) the video from both looks great but the DSLR video looks more like film. So, if you like the look of DSLR video you see on the web you'll love it on a DVD.

42. Rating: +0

    

    Hi there from France, and thanks for the excellent site. I will certainly buy your guide if I plump for the Canon 550D but I'm still undecided and have a terribly 'newbie' question for you. I'm looking to replace a Canon Vixia HF 10 camcorder which gave me near-complete satisfaction but as my stills digital camera is way obsolete I feel I could kill 2 birds with one stone by going DSLR. I will not be dedicating much time to stills photography I used nothing but autofocus for family and holiday snaps. However I do foresee getting more creative with regards to video if DSLR quality is really that good. Then again I will need the camera to operate successfully in simple point-and-shoot video on the move in autofocus. I've seen some 550D footage on youtube where I guess the user is using autofocus which seems to react very slowly with changing depth of field (kids moving around the room, etc). If I buy DSLR I think I understand what I'm getting but am I losing the no-nonsense holiday camcorder I have in the Vixia HF 10? Many many thanks in advance, Lloyd

    Lloyd,

    You said, "Then again I will need the camera to operate successfully in simple point-and-shoot video on the move in autofocus."

    Autofocus while shooting video is not a feature of most DSLR cameras. The focus changes you're seeing in youtube video shot on DSLR is manual operation. That's why it's slow and not reliable.

    The Nikon D3100 does offer 1080p video with full time autofocus while shooting video. With the 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 kit lens it's about USD$200 less than the Canon T2i.

    The Panasonic GH1 (and GH2 due for release in December) autofocus while shooting video. With a W/14-140mm Lens it's about USD$1,500. The GH1 has significant issues with the video created but that's all dealt with in the GH2.

    And, for now, those are your choices if autofocus video operation is a key factor for you. I always recommend getting your hands on a camera so you can see how it feels to you, especially with something like autofocus response.

    Let me know how it goes and I look forward to seeing your video on the web!
    -a-

43. Rating: +0

    

    I am considering the Nikon d7000. I would love the t2i but it doesn't have continuous autofocus. However, the T2i has 1080 30p. Anyway, what intrigues me are all the different lenses and the real potential for decent low light as compared to even a good ($1,200 range) consumer camcorder. I know I want a fast 2.8 aperture lens. What I am confused about is what do I need to buy with respect to range of zoom--wide angle vs. say 70-300. A prime won't work because I want to be able zoom in and out without moving my feet and getting into peoples way. I want to stay back and zoom in. Here are situations: 1. Sports indoor (kids soccer) 2. Inside general family dinner -- low light 3. Inside auditorium (quick shots school play-low light) 4. Outdoor vacation shots - touring also any good storyline and composition trick book recommendations are welcome. I am not a professional, but I have been interested in DSLR video for many years. tx

    Sheryl,

    You're likely to need two lenses to cover the range of situations you mentioned.

    For sports and school plays you'll need a telephoto zoom lens. Both the Nikon D7000 and the T2i have a crop factor that will help you as it makes all lenses more telephoto. So the 70-300mm you mentioned will look like a 112-480mm. This means you could buy something with less range and do well for these events. Also, for video you'll need very stable support to shoot anything zoomed into such a telephoto lens.

    For family shots and vacation shots you're likely to be happier with a wide-angle zoom. The crop factor is an issue here so you may need an extra-wide zoom.

    All of this depends on what you're really shooting and how you like to work. I wouldn't be worried about the video frame rates for home movies. You'll get everything you want with either of these cameras.

    I recommend getting your hands on some lenses and seeing how they work for you. At a minimum go to a local camera store and try them out. You can also rent lenses from borrowlenses.com before you buy so you can try them in real life situations.

    I hope this helps. Let me know how it goes!
    -a-

44. Rating: +0

    

    Hi Thanks for your previous answer. I have a question about which lens will be appropriate for me to get for the Canon 60d. Will be doing video in a room that is about 20x15 feet. Will be talking heads shot at head to lower chest height and head to waist height. Taking into consideration the crop factor, Will the 50mm be good enough for both shots or would I need to get a wider angle lens. If not which would you recommend.

    I use a Nikon 50mm prime for shooting testimonials and it works great. You'll need at least 6 feet working room from the talent, depending on how tight you want the shot. Getting head to waist might take a few more feet.

    The classic portrait lens is an 85mm, not for the field of view but for the way it works on faces. Good article at B&H about this - http://photography.bhinsights.com/content/portraiture.html/?BI=7230&KW=Portraiture

    Let me know how it goes.
    -a-

45. Rating: -1

    

    Can we count on a Firmware update to the Sony Nex Vg10 to shoot 24p?

    I wish I knew! Actually, I haven't Sony do much in the way of firmware updates as they are so new to the DSLR video game.

    From my perspective, if 24p is important to you I'd recommend going with a camera that already does that.
    -a-

46. Rating: +0

    

    Adriel, I love your site. I have a question I was hoping you could help me with. I am looking for a camera that records in a delivery format (like most DSLR's that record to H.264). I don't need to do any editing, but want the video to look great. I haven't purchased a DSLR for this yet because I have a few limitations: 1) The camera must be able to record for 50 minutes continuously. 2) The camera must be able to take an external microphone. 3) I must be able to manually set the iris, focus and white balance while shooting video. Do you know of any camera that meets all of these requirements? Thanks so much for any help!

    Interesting list of requirements!

    I do know of cameras that meet all your criteria but they are not DSLR cameras. The Canon M300, for instance, records 2+ hours of H.264 HD video on a 32GB card, has an external mic input, and allows manual control of most functions. I'm not sure what gets locked out during shooting but I know focus and iris are available. White balance can likely be set to auto so it will shift when you move indoors from outside. Sony and Panasonic both make competing models with similar features.

    DSLR's do not record longer than 12 minutes so that ends the discussion for you. You can plug in an external mic for several DSLR cameras and manually adjust iris and focus while shooting. Again, white balance is difficult to adjust while shooting but most have an auto function that does a decent job.

    One option is the Sony NEX-VG10. It's actually a camcorder than accepts interchangeable lenses like a DSLR. It has external mic input, allows manual control of all your key functions and will record long segments with no problem. However, you will likely need to transcode the video clips - depending on your delivery format. The VG-10 is around USD$2,000 with an 18-200mm lens - several times the cost of the M300. But it does shoot beautiful video.

    Let me know what you decide.
    -a-

47. Rating: +0

    

    I am wanting to get back into the business for a while now. I see some incredible clip and movies for people just messing around with Dslr's, Brandon Moza's films are very well put together. I was originally considering the Jvc Gy Hm 100u and then I saw Phillip Bloom and others filming with these cameras and really showing what they could do. Now at this stage I am starting from scratch. I has been 20years since I have done anything. I have a computer that I am learning Final Cut Pro Vs 6 on - An extensive program. My question is would I be better of getting the Hm 100 over the 7d or 60d. I might do some weddings. I understand there is a limit to the record time for sd cards for the still cameras. Would I also have to buy separate audio and a possible monitor if I went Dslr. If I got the JVC would I still need an external dislpay? Are the low light capabilities of the JVC really that bad in Low light? I understand Lav Mics would have to be purchase. Which Lav system is somewhat inexpensive but works great? A couple more things. What is a good Tripod- For everyday use and proffesional work? What Head for the tripod works good. Do I need to get a slider for my tripod? I would like to get one of these and lastly an steady cam. Needed or not? Forgot- Lighting- inexpensive lighting that works well. Would it be a good Idea to get a soft box Diffuser for some of the events. The main part I need now is the camera stick and sound. Sorry for the 50 Questions but you seem to have allot of experience with equipment. Any Guidance would be appreciated. Thanks, Michael Williams PS To help me get more knowledge there are some editiors and a person that owns a production studio that go to our Church. I will ask them if I can hang out and try and learn quite a bit also help out when they need it. Take Care, Michael

    Michael,

    I haven't used the JVC HM100u but it seems to be a lot of camera for the money. It's a camcorder so you don't have to deal with the 12 minute time limit for clips, dual audio, etc. that come with shooting with a DSLR.

    No doubt DSLR's have great low light capability but as you can see from this video the HM100 does a decent job in low light - http://vimeo.com/4419535. It all depends on what you're looking to shoot. And, as you're just getting back into the business, you get to decide all of that from scratch.

    As for lav, tripod, etc. I suggest getting my DSLR Video Buyer's Guide as it covers all of that and more - http://dslrhd.com/buyersguide

    I also like your idea of working with people who are into production already. The best way to learn is by doing and everyone finds their own best way by working through it.

    Let me know what you decide and I look forward to seeing your videos on the web!
    -a-

48. Rating: +0

    

    I just got the Nikon 7000, still in the box. I have been doing photos so far, but I would like to do video. Should I return the Nikon and get a Canon ? (I have so far Nikon D40, Nikon lenses: 35mm-1.8, 18-200mm, older (non-AF) 55mm, 105mm

    The Nikon D7000 is much better for shooting video than the D90. It doesn't offer as many video options as the Canon 60D but it looks like you're a Nikon shooter and you may be happier staying with a system you know.

    Unless you plan on getting into lots of video production, the D7000 should be more than adequate. I shot lots of video with a D90 and this is much, much better.

    Besides, you'd have to buy Canon adapters for all those lenses and that's a hassle.

    Let me know what you decide, I look forward to seeing your video on the web.
    -a-

49. Rating: +0

    

    Hi, Thanks for all these great resources, they've been really helpful as I'm getting started with DSLR video. I read your reply about syncing audio from a Zoom recorder in post production. My question is what is the difference/benefit with doing this vs. connecting the Zoom's line output to the cameras mic input and recording the sound there instead?

    Most pro audio guys send a line feed from their mixer to the camera so the sync sound is high quality. But, unless you're using a DSLR with manual audio control, the sound will still be not usable when recorded on the camera.

    Hope this helps,
    -a-

50. Rating: +0

    

    Im looking to do a National geographic type documentary , alot of scenery, animals, long and short distance away. all i know is that recording on an dslr can look amazing, ive heard about the d5, but im curious if i should continue pursuing DLSR or find something else. any models in mind? i'lll be renting from my uni so any models and lenses would be appreciated. push me in the right direction! THANKS alot

    I believe a DSLR is the best choice for learning how to shoot documentaries at this time. The are smaller, lighter, offer more lens choices and shoot amazing video.

    Right now the DSLR with the highest recommendation for general video is the Canon 60D. It has an LCD display that is adjustable, mic input with adjustable audio gain, a great selection of frame rates and shoots beautiful video in all light levels. The Canon 5D does shoot beautiful video but in general the 60D may be a better choice. If you can get your hands on both cameras and shoot some test footage you'll be able to decide for yourself.

    If you're shooting documentary style footage you'll also appreciate the 1.6x crop factor of the 60D that makes all lenses more telephoto. And, if your animal footage is outside during daylight, you can use "normal" lenses with f/3.5 and greater which will keep the cost lower. I suggest a telephoto zoom with a range of 70mm to 200mm. That should be a great place to start.

    Most documentaries include natural sound and that is an art in itself. You'll need to look at professional shotgun microphones to reach the distance like your telephoto lens. There are lots of good models in a variety of price ranges. Rode is always a good brand to check.

    Let me know what you decide and I look forward to seeing your videos on the web.
    -a-

51. Rating: +0

    

    I am looking to purchase a DSLR with a versatile 1080p HD shooting ability. I am planning to use the camera to shoot a pilot series that can hopefully be sold to a network. I also shoot music videos, which often include club scenes with low level lighting or badly placed club strobes, etc. I have been trying to decide between the Canon EOS 5D Mark II or the Canon EOS 7D? Any help you could provide would be appreciated. I am also open to any other suggestions that I may not have considered.

    Daniel,

    I think your decision should be between the Canon 60D and the 5D. The 60D has the same sensor and processor as the 7D but offers several features that make it better for video production. Manual audio control and an articulating LCD are top on the list.

    The 5D will have better low light performance but not by much. The biggest difference is likely to be the crop factor of the 7D or 60D. The 5D is a full frame sensor and both of the other cameras are smaller by a factor of 1.6x. This means a 50mm lens on the 7D or 60D will look like an 80mm lens on the 5D - everything is more telephoto.

    The 5D full sensor also is likely to produce a more shallow depth of field, given the same light and lens, than either the 60D or 7D. This can make focus more difficult, especially in run-n-gun situations.

    All this is neither good or bad, just a factor in how you shoot and how the cameras work.

    My recommendation would be to go with the 60D and put the savings into good lenses. Good glass can make any camera look better and it's an investment that pays off long after the camera body is obsolete.

    Let me know what you decide, I look forward to seeing your videos on the web!
    -a-

52. Rating: +0

    

    Hi I enjoy your website very much i would like to ask what Lavalier should i buy to plug into my Zoom H2 for good audio. I currently record video with a Sony HCR-HC1 and wonder what dslr camera should i purchase today. Keep up the good work Sandy

    Thanks Sandy,

    Audio Technica makes decent inexpensive lavalier mics that do a great job plugged directly into a Zoom recorder. With mics you pretty well get what you pay for but even the low cost mics will do a decent job for interviews.

    As for which DSLR camera you should purchase to go with your Sony camcorder, that's a long discussion. Most of that conversation would be about what kind of video you're planning to shoot and why you believe a DSLR is the right way to go.

    Right now, the Canon T2i is the low cost leader for solid HD video. The Canon 60D is much better for video - http://dslrhd.com/2010/09/junk-your-canon-t2i550d-for-a-60d/ and the Panasonic GH2 offers significant improvements over the 60D - http://dslrhd.com/2010/12/panasonic-gh2-vs-canon-60d/

    Hope this helps, let me know what you decide!
    -a-

53. Rating: +0

    

    Hi there! I´ve just found your site after googling for reviews on video cameras. I would like to receive some advice on getting a semi professional video camera (they are called camcorders, right?). I need it to tape some of our school classes (so the audio must be very good, and it should tape the slides that teachers show in class in a decent quality), and then put them in the web. It should tape more than 2 hours in a row. I´m in Buenos Aires and all those cameras aren´t cheap in argentinian pesos, so I want to be sure before spending money. Thanks for your tips and advice!! Rosamunda Buenos Aires, Argentina

    Hi Rosamunda - mucho gusto!

    Yes, you need a camcorder and it will need to record to an SD card if you want to shoot for two hours at a time. Tape based camcorders can only shoot about an hour before running out of tape.

    Most any of current HD camcorders will do a decent job but make sure it has an input for an external microphone. I recommend picking up a wireless lavalier microphone for capturing the audio. The camera can zoom in and shoot a nice shot of the presenter but the audio will still sound poor as the microphone is on the camera and likely several feet away from the speaker. A wireless lavalier on the speaker will make the sound great no matter where the camera is.

    I also recommend shooting the slides separate from the presenter. Capture the entire presentation with the camera on the presenter then shoot the slides with the camera focused on the screen. Put them together when you edit and you'll get much better results.

    Good luck with your project, I look forward to seeing your video on the web.
    -a-

54. Rating: +0

    

    Hi, I have a bit of a low budget of about £150 - £200, and I want to buy a digital camera that MUST have live view in order to use for animations. Ideally I would also like the camera to be able too shoot the highest quality video possible for such a low budget. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated, working close to the budget or otherwise. Thank you for your time.

    That is a very low budget but look for sales of last year's cameras. It's not likely that these will shoot great video but it will get you started. And that's the most important thing. It's far better to take action and start shooting than waiting for the perfect gear.

    -a-

55. Rating: +0

    

    Hi there! First of all thanks for all your great videos/tutorials/info on your blog. As a filmmaker I work a lot with DSLR's and I keep on learning from you! I would like to share a short film that I just directed. Shot with a Canon 1D. Youtube here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGHvXSIfcGs It's on Vimeo here: http://www.vimeo.com/18023970 I hope you like it and if so maybe want to post/blog about it! Greets from Amsterdam Andreas Pasvantis [email protected] 328stories.com

    Very creative, well done!
    -a-

56. Rating: +0

    

    I have a Canon 550D/Rebel T2i and the firmware mentioned on it says 1.0.6, hence I downloaded the currently available 1.0.9 firmware from the canon website and according to the provided instructions transferred the new firmware to my sd card and then later inserted the same sd card into my 550D. Now when I press the menu button and go to the mention firmware 1.0.6 and press set on it, the message on the LCD reads as, "The sd card containing the firmware needs to be updated" and below this there is an OK button. I try to scroll down to the OK button, but there is no response and when I press SET button it takes me back to the menu. Could you please tell me what is the problem in updating the firmware to version 1.0.9 - Is it that i have to update the firmware in sequence, ie from 1.0.6 to 1.0.7 to 1.0.8 to 1.0.9 - i tried to googl firmware versions 1.0.7 and 1.0.8, but all links take me to the official canon website which is now only showcasing the firmware version 1.0.9 - Thanks, Afzal

    Afzal,
    I do not have an answer for your problem. I need to do more checking and complete the firmware update on my camera. Please let me know if you solve the issue.

    Thanks,
    -a-

57. Rating: +0

    

    I have the GH1. I wanted to get into the DSLR 'game' with an in-expensive camera, relatively speaking. I was very happy with the results. But, Canon leads the way and I want to get a Canon also. The 5D out of my budget range. I was thinking the T2i or the 60D. Any suggestions on these 2? Or, just save some $ for the 7D? Thanks for your help! Lance

    Lance,
    I just wrote a comparison between the 60D and the GH2 - http://dslrhd.com/2010/12/panasonic-gh2-vs-canon-60d/. I'd take a look at the GH2 if I were you.
    -a-

58. Rating: +0

    

    I am thinking of buying a canon 550D, but I was playing with a freinds and the quality was absoloutely horrible.....the problem wasn't exposure, I know a little about that....at first it was noise so I manged to get the ISO down, but the focus is always off whether you manual or auto focus, the video comes out red in all white balances....what are the main settings to look out for?

    Neil,

    I'm not sure what your friends camera was setup for. Seems like there may have been other adjustments rather than just ISO. The best place to start for shooting video with a 550D/T2i is move to video selection on the mode selector. Check the menu button and look at all menu items - especially the video selections. I can't give you the full list of choices here but I'll look for it on the web.

    Try setting white balance at auto to see how that looks. The LCD on the back of the camera is good enough for basic monitoring of white balance and exposure but record some video, transfer to a computer with a good monitor and check it there to be sure.

    As for focus, the kit lens is extremely difficult to adjust manually - especially in low light. Touch the focus ring and the focus shifts a lot. It's made for the camera to adjust, not people. Also, the depth of field can be so shallow that the tip of a nose is in focus but the edges of the ears are out.

    You can have the camera adjust focus even when shooting video if you set it before you start recording. Make sure the autofocus is turned on the lens and camera then press the shutter down part way. The camera will autofocus then you can start recording. It's better to use a full manual lens for video and this is one reason why.

    Give this a try and let me know how it works. The 550D/T2i should shoot pretty good video right out of the box. If it looks bad, something is set up wrong.

    -a-

59. Rating: +0

    

    I'm putting together a D7000 rig for video shooting and I was wondering what the best approach to audio equipment would be? My budget is about $450 and I am going to travel to indonesia to shoot a pilot for a tv travel show. I was thinking a zoom recorder (not sure which was is the best), but also a wireless lavalier system so I can be mobile. I was hoping to record the video with the zoom for ambient sound while having the lavalier for subject audio. Do you think this set up could work? Any and all suggestions I am open to. Thanks. -cappy

    Thanks for the question, here's a blog post I wrote in response.

    http://dslrhd.com/2011/01/complete-dslr-audio-kit-for-less-than-450/

60. Rating: +0

    

    I'm going to be buying my first DSLR. Video is a priority, but I am also interested in taking quality stills. What would you recommend? I have been looking at the 60D and the GH2, but am open to all options. Thanks.

    Read my blog post comparing these two cameras, it should answer your question.

    http://dslrhd.com/2010/12/panasonic-gh2-vs-canon-60d/

    -a-

61. Rating: +0

    

    Hi, I have been looking for a good HD video camera . The Main use is going to be for Indie Movies and Short films .My budget is around 1500$ (70,000 INR) . At around this Budget , I have seen more than a few options on various forums . I have narrowed it down (so far ) to : -Canon 60D, Panasonic GH2 (both DSLRs ) and Sony HXR-MC50U ,Canon XA10 HD(both camcoders) . Now my question is, which ONE of the above should I get , keeping in mind that I am not a trained "cinematographer" as such and dont really know much about lenses , camera settings , follow-focus etc. also I dont care about Still images. What is the difference between the Video Quality of the above models ? I have heard of the enhanced quality of DSLRs as they add the DOF , but is that so much better and justified as against the efforts required to shoot using a DSLR?( special Rigs, expensive lenses, Extra Audio etc whereas a camcoder can be used a lot more easily). Let me know what you feel. Also if there are any other options in the same range.

    Okay, here's the thing...

    If you want to shoot indie movies and short films you're going to need more than just a camera.

    Start out with a decent tripod, microphone(s), lights, cases, etc.

    Add in the knowledge of how to script, break out shot lists, block your camera and action, work with talent, manage your production efficiently, edit, create sound tracks, grade your final and transcode into a distribution format.

    The choice of camera is just one in a long series of choices. But if you want to shoot indie movies and short films you should go with the DSLR. You'll be able to craft videos that will feel more like a movie. And, in the long run, the time and money spent getting good with a DSLR is well worth the effort.

    A DSLR will give you lots more than just DOF. For instance, you can shoot at 60fps then drop that on a 30fps timeline and you'll get beautiful 2x slowed motion that can make certain types of shots look very film like. You can't do that with either of the camcorders you mentioned.

    And, if you do go with a DSLR, I recommend the GH2 - here's why - http://dslrhd.com/2010/12/panasonic-gh2-vs-canon-60d/

    Why not start with tools that will make the most of everything you shoot?

    And that would be a DSLR.

    Let me know what you decide, I look forward to seeing your videos on the web!
    -a-

62. Rating: +0

    

    hi thanks for making a great website. am into wildlife filming, and now this dslrhd is such a boon. question is 550D, 60D or 7D? going to film hyenas, so mostly around dens at distances averaging 50- 100 m. please suggest some lenses as well. and consider slo mo as well. manfrotto seems good as legs. wht do you think? cheers thanks very much

    Thanks for the positive comment, always good to hear!

    If you're going with Canon, I'd recommend the 60D as it has several features that make it much better for shooting video. But take a look at this blog post - http://dslrhd.com/2010/12/panasonic-gh2-vs-canon-60d/ and you may want to consider the GH2. Both can shoot at 60fps so you'll get a nice slo mo effect if you drop the clips on a 30fps or 25 fps timeline.

    I like Manfrotto but there are lots of great support systems on the market these days made for lighter cameras like our DSLRs. It's worth checking around. When you're working at the distances you've mentioned you'll need a very stable platform and ultra smooth pan/tilt so I'd suggest finding a way to get your hands on the tripods personally. They all feel different and it's a very personal choice.

    As for lenses, the GH2 has a 2x crop factor and the 60D has a 1.6 crop factor so you'll get more telephoto action on any lens you use - that's a good thing for you if you're shooting at a distance of 50 to 100 meters. Here's a link to a good article about focal length that includes a calculator with various crop sizes - http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-lenses.htm

    Let me know what you decide, I look forward to seeing your videos on the web!
    -a-

63. Rating: +0

    

    How do I view and playback on an external monitor 24fps 1080P video natively? (without pull down or frame mulitiplication which creates 'judder'). Will I need a 120hz monitor? Camera used is a Lumix GH2 using the AVCHD codec. Output will be from a Macbook Pro via mini-display port and the timeline of either Premiere Pro CS4 or FCP7. BTW: I understand the mini-display port on a Macbook Pro outputs at 1080P but it's 60hz? Is this important? Thanks, Mike

    Mike,

    Great questions!

    There's lots of confusion around video resolution, display ports, refresh rates, scan rates, and frame rates. Depending on what you're wanting to monitor, some of it doesn't matter.

    For instance, the frame rate of the video is not affected by the refresh or scan rate of the monitor. An LCD monitor will show 24fps, 25fps, 30fps, etc. just fine no matter its internal scan rate. Higher scan rate monitors are usually required by gamers who are driving them from special video cards.

    If you want to display 1080 video natively you'll need a monitor with at least that many pixels horizontally. Otherwise the image will be an interpreted version of the original 1080. LIke you said, the mini-display port will output 1080 so you just need to match your monitor to that port. Apple's Cinema displays will work just great but there are many other screens on the market that will do the job. I always recommend buying from a supplier where you can install and test then exchange a device if it doesn't do the job for you.

    You mentioned that you'll be driving the image from an editing timeline. That usually means you'll be doing some color grading and that pushes the monitor issue into another level. For grading you want to make sure your monitor is showing accurate color, contrast and brightness. Also, you're planning to drive this from a Macbook Pro which will work but may not be optimum.

    I suggest looking at the Matrox MXO2. I use an earlier version of this system to drive a pixel accurate 1080 image to a monitor for grading and it makes a huge difference. The MXO2 offers a lot more than monitoring, some of which may be very useful to you. Here's an excellent FAQ about this product - http://www.videoguys.com/Guide/E/Videoguys+FAQ+Matrox+MXO2+Family+of+Products/0xed2e1ac833665213dad05e751614837f.aspx#mxo2-comp

    Hope this is useful, let me know what you decide. And I look forward to seeing your video on the web!
    -a-

64. Rating: +0

    

    I'm the tech coordinator a public charter school serving about 140 students who are all living with high functioning autism in middle and high-school. I have about $1400 to buy a good camera and audio equipment for both publicity (photos, video and podcasting) and learning opportunities--I feel the camera will be used for a lot of video as well as photos. I'm considering the Lumix DMC-GH2 as it looks like a great easy to use camera for our needs, but that restricts my audio options considerably (at $1000). I don't feel like I'd have to go with a DSLR but I really want quality media and I want the students to have an opportunity to work with decent industry standard tech. Any suggestions? Thanks Oscar Wojciechowski-Prill Technology Coordinator, Lionsgate Academy Crystal MN

    Oscar,
    I agree with your choice of the GH2, it's a solid camera for both video and stills. You're likely to want more than just the kit lens but even that's a good place to get started.

    As for audio, here's a post I wrote detailing a fairly complete audio kit in your budget - http://dslrhd.com/2011/01/complete-dslr-audio-kit-for-less-than-450/

    Let me know what you decide, I look forward to seeing your students work on the web,
    -a-

65. Rating: +0

    

    I am a amateur photographer and i also do video interview with my canon 60D. I"m looking to purchase some lights for both photography and video . My budget is $600 dollars . Any suggestion. I sent the same email from my phone dont know if it went through

    For video interview I suggest either fluorescent lighting or LED lighting. Both are low power so you can operate with normal household current, both stay very cool in the room so your talent doesn't get too hot, and both produce a soft even light that wraps around faces nicely so it's easy to get great looking video. Here's a link to an assortment of fluorescent lights and kits - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Kits/ci/2249/N/4294551105/BI/5779/KBID/6641. And here's a link to an inexpensive LED light kit - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/684264-REG/Bescor_LED90CK_Portable_LED_Video_2_Light.html/BI/5779/KBID/6641

    I have both types of lights and sometimes use a 4 bulb fluorescent with a softbox diffuser for key and LEDs for fill and back light. You can also use a reflector as a low cost fill.

    Let me know what you decide, I look forward to seeing your video on the web.

66. Rating: +0

    

    I have a nikon d7000 and I am looking at the Azden smx-10 shotgun mic and I just want to know if it works with the d7000. And if not, can you give some ideas for better mic's for around the same price. Thank you for your time.

    The Azden SMX-10 should work well with the D7000 but I do have a question.

    Are you using this to record ambient sounds or to record a subject talking?

    The SMX-10 is a stereo mic so it will be great for ambient but it will likely pick up too much of the room for use as a narrative shotgun mic.

    The Azden ECZ-990 is a mono hypercardioid "shotgun" type mic that will work better for recording subject narration, plus it's a bit cheaper than the SMX-10. The ECZ-990 should also plug right into the D7000.

    Hope this helps, I look forward to seeing your video on the web.
    -a-

67. Rating: +0

    

    I recently purchased the Canon T2i and have a couple of questions. Being that the video size is typically very large, what computer specs do you suggest I have in order to play back the video at its full size? If I decide to reduce the video file size, what is the best way to do this without losing quality? In order to produce a video similar to this, http://www.wellcomemat.com/video/548B214D5D, what type of lenses and accesories do you suggest I invest in?

    Three interesting questions.

    First, you could play the video back at its full size from a MacBook Pro but you'd need an external monitor to show it pixel for pixel. For editing I recommend a Mac Pro with at least 16GB RAM and an Apple Cinema monitor. This will do the job nicely and allow enough processing power to render your edits in a reasonable time.

    Second, reducing the file size of the video will always lose quality. The only ways to reduce file size are to either compress the video (from ProRes 422 to H.264 for instance) or reduce the number of pixels you're storing (such as editing your 1080p video down to a 720p timeline). But drive storage is so cheap that it does not make sense to do this to your raw footage.

    But, if you're asking about how to render the final edit to a smaller file size, that will be driven by your distribution. If you're playing on the web you can render straight from the timeline to H.264 at a size appropriate for the web and the size of that file will be much smaller than your original footage. I use Final Cut Pro and render out using either QuickTime or Compressor. QuickTime is faster, Compressor has higher quality.

    As for the lenses and equipment you'd need to shoot video like the sample in your link, that was shot using wide angle lenses. Here's link to a blog post of mine about choosing lenses that may help - http://dslrhd.com/2011/01/three-ways-to-choose-your-dlsr-video-lens/. I believe you'll be looking at lenses under 20mm and under f/2.8 to match that video. I always recommend shooting from the most stable platform possible so you'd need a decent tripod. A monopod is easier to move around with and more stable than anything hand held. With enough practice you could shoot this with one of the shoulder mounting rigs made for DSLR cameras.

    If you watch the sample video and listen to the audio you'll notice how much of the boomy empty room sound there is - except for a couple of shots when the camera is very close to the realtor, like when he opens the door to the garage. That tells me they used a shotgun mic on the camera which is not what I recommend. The video would have sounded a lot better with a wireless lav on the subject.

    But it did sound like the audio was cleanly recorded and you would need to add an audio recorder or use the Magic Lantern hack to give you manual control over the audio on the T2i.

    Hope this helps, let me know what you decide. I look forward to seeing your video on the web!
    -a-

68. Rating: +0

    

    Hi I've got video job soon and it's shooting at night. I use a Canon 5D mkll. The subject will be lit but I'm a bit concerned about the amount of noise in the dark areas at a high ISO as we're shooting out in the woods. I've been told to not go above 800iso to avoid this. I have got a fixed 50mm f1.4 lens but I'll also be using a 24-70mm f2.8 which obviously limits my film speed options. Any suggestions on best combinations?? Thanks! Rich

    Rich,

    My suggestion is go find out.

    A good trial lawyer never asks a question in court if they do not already know the answer. A good DP never walks into a shoot where they do not already know what set up will create the best result.

    Your 50mm f/1.4 on a 5D at 800 ISO should be pretty awesome even out in the woods. But you will need some light, even if it's only to shape the scene to create the effect you want. So check the phase and position of the moon on the nights of your shoot, get out as soon as possible and shoot test footage under conditions as similar as possible to the shoot. I think you'll be happy if you buy some low cost battery operated LED lights to fill in faces for closeups but the only way to know is check it first.

    Let me know how it goes, I look forward to seeing your video on the web!
    -a-

69. Rating: +0

    

    How can I transfer video shot with my a55 Sony DSLR on a SDHC video card to FCP

    There are several ways to deal with this issue. It's likely you'll need to use Log and Transfer in FCP to convert the files to ProRes. But you'll need the entire folder as created by the A55 with all subfiles included, not just the video files. Sometimes it works best if you connect the camera directly to the computer rather than connecting the SDHC card.

    You may also be able to use a program called ClipWrap. I use it with files from my Sony Z5 - it lets you rewrap the MTS files to QuickTime or you can recompress to ProRess. You'll have to try both to see which works best for you, sometimes different clips work best with different methods.

    Also, Google the phrase "AVCHD-MTS to FCP" and you'll find several discussions, suggestions and tools.

    Hope this helps,
    -a-

70. Rating: +0

    

    Hi, I appreciate the Q & A, I'm considering installing Magic Lantern (on my Canon T2i) so I can disable the AGC among other things. Here's my question... Can I install ML on one SD card but not on a second SD card and swap the two? This way, when I want to use Magic Lantern I can, but when my wife takes the camera, she can use it without all the Magic Lantern extras? So basically, am I able to swap cards and use ML only when I want to? Thank you! Lenny

    Lenny,

    Besides installing ML on the SD card, you have to change the bootflag on your T2i. Read the installation instructions about this for more info. But this means that to use an SD card without ML you'd need to reset the bootflag on our T2i before handing it over to your wife for stills.

    You can shoot stills on the T2i after installing ML and it's easy to keep the special screen overlays turned off. Another option is to leave the T2i bootflag set and install AUTOEXEC.BIN so every card is bootable but not every card has ML on it.

    Interesting question. I'll try it, you try it and we'll compare notes!
    -a-

71. Rating: +0

    

    Hi, I need your advise regarding video in DSLR. Currently, I am doing freelance works as photographer. Thinking to add video coverage as one of the services that I want to offer. Now I am using D90 with several Nikon lenses. I need advise from you regarding Camera body and Video-accessories. Camera Body, I am puzzled between D7000, 60D/5D, or GH2. Which one is the best that I should get? The footage will be viewing in TV since my service mainly covering Wedding. For Video-accessories, I read your post regarding "audio under $450" and impress with it. Can you let me know what else that I need to buy, I heard that I need a good stabiliser system. Thank you in advance.

    Thank you for your question. There is so much more than technical specs that make a camera "the best" for anyone. Especially when you're shooting a mix of stills and video.

    You can shoot better video on the D7000 than the D90 so if you want to stay all Nikon that's the way to go. And I here great things about this camera for stills.

    The GH2 is more suited for video production than any of the other cameras you listed. However, you can't beat the 5D for stills and many people love the video from this camera. You'll need an adapter to use your Nikon lenses with either of these cameras but that's easy to work with.

    I think you'd be wise to get your hands on each of these, shoot some stills and some video, and see for yourself what feels like the right camera to add to your D90.

    For weddings, you'll need a good tripod with a fluid head but you may also want to explore some of the moving support systems.

    If you want to get the camera involved in the action you'll need a SteadiCam type system and there are several made for light weight cameras. If you go with one of the glide rail type systems you'll need more setup time but the smooth movement increases production value a lot.

    Again, most of this is personal style so I recommend looking at videos you like to see what they used to get their shots then getting your hands on the gear for a test.

    Hope this helps, let me know what you decide. I look forward to seeing your videos on the web!
    -a-

72. Rating: +0

    

    Hi. Great site and thanks for sharing your knowledge. An editing question: I already have Final Cut Express on my 2 yr old iMac (20", dual-core, 4GB RAM). Can I import DSLR video (planning on buying a Canon 60D) into FCE or do I need Final Cut Pro? If I can use FCE, what major functions that pro video editors expect are missing?

    The biggest issue with FCE is the lack of Apple ProRes 422 codecs for HD video. Basic editing functions are all the same in both FCE and FCP. FCP also include Color and other tools which are very useful for pro work but it's the ProRes codecs that are immediately useful.

    You can use other codecs included with FCE for HD so give it a try and see what you think.

    Also, you're likely to want to increase your RAM from 4GB. That will produce very slow renders and may not run well at all for real time previews while editing HD.

73. Rating: +0

    

    In order to get good video quality (HD) in my TV HD, should I get an hdmi (from my Canon T2i) to hdmi (to my Samsung HDTV?

    Yes, you'll need a mini-HDMI to HDMI cable. The T2i should deliver HD to your Samsung on playback. But during recording the T2i drops the output from the HDMI port to standard 480i video. And buy the cheapest cable you can find. HDMI is a digital format and it either works or not. Better cables do not make for better HDMI video.

74. Rating: +0

    

    I'm very glad you have this website. I just signed up for updates and I'm going to download the buyers guide, however I do have a question...I was a Nikon user and am very familiar with that brand, but have been looking at your comparison of the D60 and the GH2. I thought I wanted the D3100 because of my limited budget, but I haven't seen that much information on that camera. I need to do some interviews/ photos to include with a grant proposal for funding for a documentary. I only have about $950 to work with. I already own a tripod, and earbuds, but I'll need the Zoom and lav (thanks for the audio recommendations) and a light kit. I know I'm stretching it; any thoughts?

    The D3100 is a good entry level DSLR and it does shoot 1080 24p video. But it does not offer as many video features as the Canon T2i/550D. That's why you don't see much info on the camera. If you're spending that much most people would spend a little bit more for the T2i just for the microphone input and choice of video rates. That being said, if you're a Nikon shooter go get your hands on both cameras and make sure you're comfortable with the Canon menu system, buttons, grip, etc. You may find being comfortable is worth more than a tech spec feature.

    If you're looking for the lowest cost light kit, search for Do It Yourself (DIY) lighting plans. You can hit a Home Depot or Lowes and put together very functional lights for a lot less than buying commercial equipment. The DIY stuff may not look quite as professional but it the end result can be just the same.

75. Rating: +0

    

    Great site. You recommend the Zoom line of audio recorders. Do you have an opinion on the Tascam line? Particularly the new DR-05 that should compete with the H1. I was going to buy the H1 until i saw the Tascam at the same price. The feature set sounds comparable with improvements over the H1.

    Tascam has always made great products. I've owned several and still enjoy their quality. The DR-05 has a couple of features that may make it a better choice than the Zoom H1.

    The input is both mic and line level. You can adjust the level of the Zoom H1 to handle a moderate line level but having the option built-in could make the DR-05 a better choice if you use a field mixer.

    It has a built-in speaker which is useful for basic track checking. This is better than nothing but I still recommend using a set of headphones to monitor your recording.

    It offers an interesting combination of peak limiter and gain monitoring/reduction that promises to set levels for you during a practice run and keep your recording from distorting during a take. It only reduces the gain, no pumping the gain back up during a quiet section, so it could save a recording.

    I like the description of how they run power to the analog and digital circuits independently and keep them on separate circuit boards. Seems they have engineered a high quality product that should have a low noise level while handling a wide dynamic range of recording situations.

    Overall, Tascam may have created a very inexpensive digital recorder that - for some people - may be better than the Zoom H1. I couldn't find any hands-on reviews but I'm still looking.
    -a-

76. Rating: +0

    

    So... What should we expect the next great HDSLR camera to be after NAB?

    Good question!

    I expect the trend will be more camera for less money - because that's what's been happening for the last 30 years and I don't expect it to change.

    But I'm not sure there will be a really "great" DSLR camera in the near future. Sony and Panasonic both have released camcorders with DSLR sized sensors that address the biggest issues of shooting professionally with a DSLR. These cameras take film-style lenses, have proper audio inputs and outputs, and output SDI uncompressed video plus record to internal cards.

    If you're shooting on a crew as a professional you need all these types of features and the cost of these new cameras make them affordable for most any pro. So my expectation is that the camera manufacturers will move on that path rather than trying to make DSLR's be something they are not.

    And then there's all the Red line up...
    -a-

77. Rating: +0

    

    Do you think DSLR can be a good teaching tool for digital cinematography?

    Yes, I think DSLR's are great tools for teaching digital cinematography. To shoot good video with a DSLR you have to learn about lenses, f/stops, shutter speeds, ISO settings, focal length and many other elements basic to cinematography. And, when you learn well, a DSLR will reward you with stunning footage.

    All the other elements of digital cinematography such as scripting, preproduction, production and post are always affected by your choice of camera. Learning when a DSLR is perfect for a project and when you should chose another camera is a great skill as it can be used with any equipment choice you face.

    Thank you for the question!
    -a-

78. Rating: +0

    

    I want to know if it´s really possible to out put a pure and pristine video signal from the camera sensor during recording, without the compression that goes to the cards. I´ve read some forums and many says it´s possible via hdmi in some models, other say that it is not posible no matter what model you use. What is the true?

    Most DSLR cameras (Canon and Nikon) do not output pure HD video from the HDMI port. It's there for monitoring only and has overlays just like the LCD on the camera back. The Panasonic GH2 will output clean HD video from the HDMI port. It's the only one I know of at this time.
    -a-

79. Rating: +0

    

    Hello, I have recently started making short videos using a Nikon D7000 which records onto SD cards. However, I need to submit some of my wrok and the footage has to be on HD tapes. Is there any way to transfer what's stored on my SD card to a HD tape? Thanks.

    Yes, you'll transfer your footage from the SD card to a computer. Then render the files out to an HD tape recorder. You'll need to make sure you know the correct format for the tape output as there are several formats and they are not all compatible. Any reputable video production or editing company should have the equipment and know how to do it.

    -a-

80. Rating: +0

    

    What is better? Using a Zoom H4n/H2 microphone and a sennheiser lavalier mic or a Rode NTG-1/Videomic and sennheiser lavalier mic? Is it also easy to be a boom operator and cameraman at the same time since I am only 1 kid doing video.

    I wish I could say what would be better for you but that's not possible. I carry several mics and often find my first guess is totally wrong. Every situation can call for a different set up and every sound operator can choose something different and still get a great result. So you'll just have to experiment and find out what works best for you.

    As for operating sound and the camera at the same time, the truth is that one of them will have to be locked down. If the sound is most important then lock the camera down and work the sound. If you've got to move the camera during the shot then you have no choice but to lock down the mic and record levels and hope for the best.

    Give it a try and let me know how it goes.
    -a-

81. Rating: +0

    

    first of all,this forum is awesome,please keep up the good work. I'm planning to make an indie film targeted for theatrical release.I'm ready with my screen-paly and casting crew.I decided to use canon 550D to shoot my film after been through lot of DSLR forums.but my question here is,will it be a like a real 35mm movie when i project my film on big-screen(35mm screen).I'm not expecting it to be as clear as a RED movie,but at least people should not be uncomfortable with it.So,did you ever get a chance to see canon 550D output on big-movie-screen,how did it look?. my second question is,what basic lense would you prefer?.there are no zoom shots in my movie,but there are lot of outdoor shots.i'm planning to use a simple prime canon 50mm lense within my budget,what would you say?.i'm planning to have one EF18-55 too,but not really sure for waht kind of shots i can use this lense(they come with canon 550D the pacakage). Thanks in advance, Prasanth

    Prasanth,
    First, there's a lot that more that goes into getting a "real 35mm movie" look on a big screen than the camera sensor. If you use pro level lighting, lenses and grading you'll get a great image on the screen from a DSLR. I suggest watching the shoot-out series from Zacuto where you'll see lots of cameras side by side - http://www.zacuto.com/shootout. I've seen DSLR footage projected and it can look amazing but I'd suggest going for the best lenses you can afford and using the MagicLantern update to increase the data rate of the camera. Every little bit of improvement when you capture the initial image goes a long way to getting great images on the big screen.

    As for lenses, if you're shooting outside you'll need an ND filter (neutral density) on your 50mm to cut back the light or you'll lose the depth of field look of the DSLR. The 15-55mm is not as fast so it may work okay but I'd still explore dropping a bit of ND if you're in bright sunlight. If you want lots of DOF with everything in focus then you'll be okay with no ND. I also highly recommend using a polarizing filter outside as it will cut out glare. It's absolutely necessary if you're shooting around water.

    Hope this helps, I look forward to seeing your videos on the web.
    -a-

82. Rating: +0

    

    Hi! I just got my awesome 7D and I'm going to China on a missions trip as the team videographer in just a few weeks. I need to know what will be the easiest and most efficient sound recording method. Shotgun mic mounted on top? external recording device? What would work best for on the go video and audio?

    Congratulations on the 7D!

    While mounting a shotgun mic on the top will be the easiest and most efficient way to capture sound, it's also the worst way to get good sound. If you want to record audio direct to the 7D you'll need to stop the auto-gain from killing your track.

    Here's a link to a video showing you one way to do this - http://dslrhd.com/2010/04/dslr-audio-trick-for-canon-7d-and-t2i/

    Or you can buy one of the portable audio pre-amps that have the ability to keep the auto-gain from making your sound bad. Google will give you lots of options.

    Another fast and easy approach would be to mount a Zoom H1 to your camera. One click and you're recording great sound, in stereo. You'll have to sync the sound later in post production but it's a small price to pay for the great improvement in quality.

    One step up from this would be to feed a shotgun to the Zoom H1. You'll need a way to mount both on your camera but there are lots of options for doing that. This will give you more directional sound with great recording quality. You could use any of the lightweight shotgun mics made for DSLR work.

    If you go with a Zoom, I also recommend bringing a set of ear buds so you can monitor the sound. Mics pick up stuff we ignore and miss stuff we focus on so there's no way to tell if you're getting the sound you want without checking the audio.

    Finally, if you're wanting to record audio of people talking - interview style - I also recommend adding a wireless lavalier to your sound kit. You want the mic as close to the person talking as possible. A shotgun on the camera can be too far away to get great sound, especially in a noisy environment.

    My perspective is that you only get one chance to shoot most things that you'll come across on your trip. It's better to be prepared and try to get the best audio you can. Why? Because you can edit almost anything over a good audio track - stills, video of the event, cover shots grabbed before or after, etc. - and create a great video. But awesome video edited over a bad sound track will not work out so well.

    I look forward to seeing your video on the web!
    -a-

83. Rating: +0

    

    I own a Røde SVM and am using it with a Canon 600D. I also own a Zoom H2 from prior recording projects. The AGC is a real problem for me and I'm wondering if it's possible to work around it by plugging the Røde SVM into the Zoom H2 into the DSLR. Therefore getting audio straight into the camera, thus saving time editing the video and sound together, and avoiding the AGC. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers.

    Yes, you can plug the Zoom output into the DSLR and it will likely be better than going with the mic straight to the camera. The signal level coming from the Zoom is higher than that of the mic.

    But it will not change the effects of the AGC. If you want to record direct to camera you'll need to defeat the AGC. There are external pre-amps and other ways of tricking the AGC. But even then, the quality of the audio from the camera is likely to be worse than from the Zoom.

    Check out PluralEyes for a good way to sync audio in post and keep using the Zoom. That's my recommendation.

    I look forward to seeing your videos on the web!
    -a-

84. Rating: +0

    

    I'm trying to get a good audio setup going for interviews. I will be interviewing in a variety of settings, including perhaps backstage before/after concerts, where I expect to get background noise, or even some hum. After watching your Sennheiser vs Rode VideoMic video, I am looking into getting a shotgun mic and a Zoom H1 or H2. Would a shotgun do the trick, if setup on a boom stand from below? I plan on keeping it (my mic) close to the subject-- no more than about a foot away. Would the RVM be a good choice, or is there another shotgun in that price range that would be better suited? I'd like to get clean sound, naturally, like you did once you switched to RVM over to the Zoom, and were at the closest proximity. Additionally, would the H1 or H2 be a better choice, assuming that I'm using an external mic? Thanks for your help!

    I'd recommend the new Rode Videomic Pro - it's much better than the original. Yes, putting the shotgun on a stand from below is a great way to work the mic. In a noisy environment I highly recommend constant monitoring of the audio with ear buds or phones - it's the only way to know that you're getting what you want.

    The Zoom H1 and H2 will sound pretty close in terms of audio quality. The H2 is a bit more durable feeling in your hand. The H1 is a bit easier to use and cheaper but it uses a micro-SD card so it's another card format to deal with. You can monitor the live sound with either.

    I have both and in most cases can't tell the difference in the final quality so it's more about what works for you in physical form factor, cards, transfers, etc.

    Good luck and I look forward to seeing your video on the web!
    -a-

85. Rating: +0

    

    Is monopod good enough to prevent camera shake in video on non-IS lens for event shooting? I just bought my first DSLR--60D--and my first lens--24mm-70mm F2.8 L series. Love it so far w/stills. Except i didn't realize it doesn't have image stabilization and i cn see my little and sometimes not so little camera shakes. Will a monopod be "good enough" to stand in for built-in lens IS for event type shooting? 10-15 second clips of long events like half marathons, track meets, family get togethers. or do i need to spring for lens with IS? happy to get a lens with IS--unfortunately in the canon line it means having to pick a different lens with different compromises (slower f/stops, not L series glass, less wide angle zoom, and in one case, extra $1000 in cost)

    Personally, I prefer a monopod over most of the ways to stabilize a camera without using a full tripod. It helps even if you don't have it touching the ground as it adds weight below the camera dropping the center of gravity. Plus you can hold the camera above your head and get decent shots if you're braced against a wall or strong structure.

    In my experience IS lenses are great at reducing camera shake for a still but not so good at taking out movement while shooting video. There's some improvement but not enough to justify the cost. Plus it drains the battery. So go for the monopod and I think you'll be happy you did.

    I look forward to seeing your video on the web!
    -a-

86. Rating: +0

    

    I'm going to make a short film about native women rebounding from alcohol addiction and the way we each found our way back from the brink. I'm just learning to take pictures with a film camera just finished a class at school. What camera would you suggest for this. Is there a camera that does both? Not knowing that much about cameras yet I want one that i can shoot a good quality short. Any suggestions? Thanks for any help. Kathleen Caesar

    The Canon T2i is the best low cost camera for both still and video. You'll find lots of posts about it here on my site and across the web.

    Good luck, your project sounds like a worthwhile venture.
    -a-

87. Rating: +0

    

    Thanks for your great site! I'm about to plunge into the DSLR realm and your resources have been very helpful. I plan on going with a 60D and would love a wide angle zoom like the Canon 10-22, but I was surprised it didn't have Image Stabilization (I plan on doing documentary / walking & shooting stuff). Is this a limitation of wide zooms, or can you recommend a super wide (like the 10-22) with IS. Similarly, I was bummed when I found out the 50mm lacks IS as well. Any suggestions for a fast prime lens with stability control (without breaking the bank)? I just fear my footage will be jittery without it. Thanks so much! - Mac

    I have good news for you...

    Don't worry about IS for shooting video. The IS built into these lenses does help when shooting stills but not so much when shooting video. They help take out very small movements at the moment of the shutter opening for the still.

    If you're walking or moving the camera the IS won't do much to take out the big movement hitting the sensor and creating jello shots.

    The good news is that wide angle lenses help a lot in reducing movement issues. You'll also want to stop down a lot so your DOF is nice and deep or you'll have things popping in and out of focus on every step.

    More good news is that you can get any of the gimbal mounts for light weight cameras and get the ultra smooth gliding camera movement you want with any lens. There are inexpensive stabilizers for less than $100 or you can pick up a pro system like the Glidecam for around $500. All of these have a learning curve to get the results you want - look at everything online to see what makes the most sense for you.

    I also recommend heavy duty Gorillapods and monopods as other ways to support a camera without carrying a full tripod.

    Hope this helps - I look forward to seeing your videos on the web!
    -a-

88. Rating: +0

    

    I have a G-5 Apple computer with FCP studio 2.....I think there are codecs that the FCP studio 2 for power pc mac's don't have. I've worked in tv (have bachelor's in RTF from UT Austin) so I'm not technically illiterate, but I'm not really up on the DSLR HDSLR for video stuff. I have a program called syntheyes and maya and want to shoot top notch footage that I can composite with 3d. I don't know which camera would be the best for my usage.....I'd like to be able to shoot HD commercials....so I'm thinking an HDSLR would probably give me the best quality picture and I wouldn't need the disk space for a regular HD camera. I just want to be able to get in and out of my FCP version easily without crazy converts. Do you know which is the best camera for this purpose. HD quality FCP PPC codec supported and with the best features available for video....as I'd not be too concerned with the still aspects of the camera. Thank you very much for your time and attention...if there are multiple cameras you could point me to and different ranges that might help with my search process to find the best camera for my circumstance.

    Todd,
    Thank you for your question, I know lots of people are using G-5's and older versions of FCP.

    First, there's no getting around converting the video files shot with a DSLR so you can edit them in FCP. All the digital video files created by all DSLR's are highly compressed. It takes a lot of compute power to decompress the video on the fly so it can play in a real time timeline. Your G5 won't have the horsepower to do it. And FCP2 won't work with the file formats from a DSLR. The latest versions of Premier and FCP will handle DSLR files without conversion but everything else pretty well makes conversion a necessary step.

    I'm not sure what conversion tools will run on your G5 but I'd take a look at MPEG Streamclip from http://www.squared5.com. It's free and does allows batch processing. You'll need to stick with codecs that work with FCP 2, I'm not up on those but MPEG Streamclip will only offer the codecs on your computer so you should be okay.

    You also mentioned using a DSLR to keep disk space down. The original files from a DSLR are highly compressed. But the converted files you'll need for editing will be the same size as any hi def video format. You'll need enough storage for the originals plus the converted. You can delete the originals after checking the conversions or off load them to an archive disk.

    As for which camera to use for commercial production or 3D compositing, I'd recommend the Canon 60D. It shoots the same video as the 7D and the T2i but the swivel LCD and other functions on the camera make it better for commercial production. And, as always, the lenses, lighting, etc. will have as much to do with the final video as the camera - maybe more.

    I hope this helps and I look forward to seeing your video on the web.
    -a-

89. Rating: +0

    

    Great website!What do you think about the decision from apple to stop upgrading Color and the new relase of FCPX. I've been working the past two years on FCP 7 and just recently i started learning how to use Apple Color and the Technicolor cinestyle display LUT, but I'm worried that this program could become obsolete along with Fcp7 because the new policy of apple.. Would you suggest to move the the Adobe suite for editing and grading? sorry for my english kind regards

    I agree with your concerns and just made the switch to Adobe Premier. You can get it at 50% off until 10/31/11. That makes the basic Premier package only $100 more than FCPX and that's a no brainer. From everything I can find, there is less of a learning curve to move from FCP7 to Premier than to FCPX. Plus Premier has a lot more professional functionality. That's why I decided now is the time and placed the order.

90. Rating: +0

    

    I am looking for a fair affordable Lavalier for personal work before i start into Commercial Work. What is a sweet Spot for good quality product for a good price? i am planning on buying the Zoom H2 and would just like your opinion and a few options from a Pro such as your self. Thank. Samuel Woitaszewski

    Samuel,
    Here's a link to a post I wrote about a low cost audio kit for DSLR video - http://dslrhd.com/2011/01/complete-dslr-audio-kit-for-less-than-450/

    The price kicks up a lot if you need to go wireless. Instead of $50 for the ATR-35s you'll spend at least $150 for a VHF wireless. But VHF wireless units have very low usable range, pick up lots of static and can be pretty noisy (lots of hiss). A decent UHF wireless starts around $400. Professional systems start around $800 and go up. That's why I recommend going straight to a small recorder with a lav if you want the best sound for the lowest budget.

    Whatever you go with I suggest having both omnidirectional and cardioid lavalier microphones. Omnidirectional are the standard mic in almost all lav systems and they're great for when you want to pick up everything around - like the bride, groom and minister at a wedding from one mic. But they are deadly in noisy environments when all you want is to pick up a single voice. That's when you'll want a cardioid or even a hyper-cardioid lav to cut the background sound.

    Cardioids and hyper-cardioids are more difficult to use because you have to have them pointed at the sound source where an omni will work no matter which way it's pointing. But it's worth it to get the sound right on the recording.

    Hope this helps! Let me know...
    -a-

91. Rating: +0

    

    How do you address the issue of the 60d auto shut off during movie recording after about 12 minutes? There's no overheat indicator. I've searched the manual for awhile and have not yet found an explanation so I started to google it and came across your site. Also I just bought my son a T3i for Christmas after he said that was the one he wanted. How does that compare with the 60d for video etc.? Thank you

    I think I've answered this before but here's the deal.

    It's an issue with the file system, not the overheating sensor. You can only write a file of 4GB and that comes out to about 12 minutes of 1080p footage on the 60D (or most any Canon DSLR). Pro camcorders recording to cards with the same file limitation just start a new file when they hit 4GB then use a utility to join them together when you ingest the video into a computer. But DSLR's just stop recording when they hit the 4GB limit.

    You'll need to use two cameras and stagger the times when you manually stop and restart recording so you have a continuous video of the event. I also keep an audio recorder going full time through the entire shoot. Grab a few cover shots and you can patch the edit between video clips as long as the audio is continuous.

    This is one reason why a DSLR is not the right camera for every shoot!

    Thanks for stopping by,
    -a-

92. Rating: +0

    

    Hi, I'm a film student in Los Angeles and I've saved up $5000 for new equipment. I have ordered the Canon 5D as B&H recently had $1999 special. However, I have a dillema about whether to buy the fotodiox pro adapter and buy the Nikon lenses for my 5D or invest in the more expensive Canon lenses. I don't want to comprimise any sharpness or quality on my 5D by using non Canon lenses. Since I need a fast lens for low light shooting, I can't decide whether to purchase the Canon 50mm f/1.4 or the Nikon 50mm f/1.2. Of couse, I would get the Canon 50mm f/1.2 if my budget allowed it but with my $5000 I'd also like to get a Libec LS-55 tripod, 70-200mm f/2.8 lens, new Macbook Pro, Z-Finder, ND Filter, and a decent double sound recording system. My question is: Am I going to compromise sharpness, image quality if I get the Nikon lenses instead of Canons for my 5D? I have done my research but I'd lime to ask your opinion since you're a priceless source of quality information. I'm a film student who shoots a lot of student/indie film projects. I'm planning on freelancing as soon I gather the neccessary tools. I need 3 fast lenses (50mm, 70-200mm and a 24 mm). Would you recommend the Nikon or Canon lenses on a budget w/o compromising quality? Thank you very much for your time and advice in adavance.

    Great question!

    I don't think you'll go wrong with either approach. Personally, I find the high quality lenses from any source look so much better than consumer lenses that it becomes a matter of personal preference. I think most people who come to Canon from Nikon don't want to buy all new lenses so the adapter makes sense. But if you're starting out I think you'll find the function and compatibility of a Canon lens direct with no adapter will make more sense.

    Good luck, let me know what you decide and I look forward to seeing your videos on the web.

93. Rating: +0

    

    Hello, I am looking at getting my first DLSR camera. I will be using this camera for mostly shooting HD video. I have looked at and done research on a a few different cameras that all have HD video capability. I have been most intrigued by the new Sony A77 because of the auto-focus for video as well as the 60p at 1080p. I was also looking at Cannon's T3i, 60D, and 7D. I would love to know if you have tested any of these for video and if you have any advice for me for which one to buy? Thank you very much, Brian

    Brian,

    Thanks for stopping by. Unfortunately, I have not tested the Sony A77 for video production. I do use a Canon T3i and it is a great DSLR video solution for the cost. One of the reasons I recommend it is the wide range of lenses available for the Canon mount. I'm not a big fan of autofocus for video work. In fact, I don't know any professional shooters that use autofocus for video work except maybe to help set focus before shooting.

    Autofocus tends to keep looking for what to focus on and the choices it makes may not be what you want. Even the newer auto-face focus units tend to hunt around for a face and that can ruin your video.

    I do use the autofocus feature on the T3i if I can't see well (like when using the back LCD in bright sunlight). I hold the shutter down half way until the camera focuses on the object of the shot then roll video and leave focus alone.

    As for 60p at 1080p, that's an awesome look but it's not something you'll use everyday for most types of video production. You can shoot 60 fps at 720p on a T3i and that's a workable solution for those times when a bit of slo-mo is required. If you're shooting music videos for a living you may want 60p at 1080 but otherwise I'm not sure it's worth locking yourself into Sony lenses for the future.

    Hope this helps, let me know what you decide and I look forward to seeing your videos on the web.
    -a-